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Pogue Ethics 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Hemken, Kevin Pogue, 1991
Page Views: 4,365
Submitted By: j gatchalian on Apr 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (174)
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Alex Orkwis topdogging Pogue Ethics.


long route on jugs and plates. the crux comes about halfway up, when you are forced to negotiate a bulge. there is a sit-down ledge rest before the crux, though.


hike back down the road from the main area and look for a faint trail on the right. hike up this trail and the first climb you reach is pogue ethics.


11 bolts

Photos of Pogue Ethics Slideshow Add Photo
Pogue Ethics, late fall 2007
Pogue Ethics, late fall 2007
The start of Pogue Ethics looks like a coral reef
The start of Pogue Ethics looks like a coral reef
It's a long one!
BETA PHOTO: It's a long one!
Mary froging through the crux on Pogue.
Mary froging through the crux on Pogue.
Scott enjoying "Pogue Ethics".
Scott enjoying "Pogue Ethics".
Dream team reunited
Dream team reunited
Starting off Pogue Ethics
Starting off Pogue Ethics

Comments on Pogue Ethics Add Comment
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By AJ O.
From: Chicago
Mar 24, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One of the best routes for its grade in the gorge. Really great line consisting of pulling plates and chicken heads. Good length too. Used to be 10 bolts, but the first bolt is marked off (stick clip the second; fixed biners at the top).
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Thanks to the locals for replacing the first four bolts on this route with beautiful new glue-ins! Stick clip is still advisable, as the start is a bit pumpy.
By Budman252
Jun 17, 2012

Definitely the best sport at it's grade in The Red.
By Peter Lundgren
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2012

The first bolt has been replaced.
By Hunter Gvo
From: Birmingham, Michigan
Apr 10, 2013

Awesome route! Definitely do it if you come to this wall. They added a few bolts this spring, there are 11 now.
By Mike Lambino
From: Jasper, Ga
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Best 5.9 period. IMHO
By Ben Rodes
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For sure some of the best jugs I have grabbed! a must do at the grade...Stellar!
By Britton M
Dec 28, 2014

easy approach, easy to find, great route if you are on a quick trip or pressed for time.
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