Poetry in Motion 

Just completed this route today, and had a lot of fun. To add to rick's description, I'd suggest the following:

To reach the start of the climb, scramble up the ramp to the left of the start of Welcome to the Machine. At the top of the ramp it is possible to build an anchor with .5"-2" gear.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.6R). Climb up and slightly left from the belay and pass a bolt after about 30'. (This is the last bolt on a variation that extends from Endgame to the first pitch of Welcome to the Machine). From here head left and up 40' along featured but runout terrain. You will find a few stopper placements as the climb passes the end of the first pitch of Endgame about 10' to your left. Continue 20' up to a beefy 3/8" bolt. From here go straight up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (105', 5.9). This is an excellent pitch. From the anchor step left to a weakness and follow it up approximately 10'. Make a tenuous step right to a second feature that leads to a small roof. Both of these features protect with nuts. Pass the right side of the roof and continue straight up toward a large roof. I suggest stepping right to the belay for the second pitch of Endgame at this point. Although the original route belays above the roof, the Endgame belay station is more comfortable and has much newer bolts.

Pitch 3 (60', 5.10aR). Assuming you belayed at the Endgame anchors, continue up to the large roof. Place a #3 or #4 camalot just below the roof on the right side. Make a move up past the right side of the roof (10a) to an awkward ledge on the left. Reach very high from the ledge to a bolt. Step left around the arete and make a few moves up to a second bolt (the original route uses these two bolts to belay). From the second bolt, make a move or two up, and then traverse left about 20' to some chickenheads. The traverse is easy save an early 5.9/10a move. Climb up the chickenheads (5.8) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (190', 5.10aR). The original route headed up and right to the ledge at the end of pitch 4 of Welcome to the Machine. Since the original route was put up, an alternative ending was established. This description is for the alternative finish. From the anchor head slightly left and up about 15' to a bolt with a leeper hanger (5.8). Continue straight up another 30' to a small bulge and a second bolt with a leeper hanger (hard 5.8 near the bulge). Continued up and left for 50-60 feet of unprotected but easy slab to a third bolt (5.7RRR). Take a moment to clean your shorts. Continue up and left a few feet to the edge of an alcove, then climb up to a bolt on its right side. Just above the bolt, make a hard move on some grainy rock (10a), and head up on easier terrain to the top of End Pinnacle. Body belay in the deep bowls on top of the pinnacle. A large chickenhead can be tied as a backup.

This climb has multiple runouts and scarce gear. Where gear is available, it can be tricky to place. While this climb is a lot of fun, make sure you are climbing solidly before attempting it.

A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

www.geir.com/end%20pinnacle%20w.pdf

I'm surprised people still talk about these routes. Someone should bolt it up and make it fun (you have my blessing).

it's already fun. :)

Bwwaaahhhaaahhhaaa
You think Steve would bless those bolts, Bradley ?

Where r u these days ? Last I heard, you'd dropped off the face of the climbing planet.

Steve won't find out for years. We're all using i-pads and I bet he's got a printing press :)

Some of my students dug up the pics on this site and showed me. I thought I'd better join and defend my tarnished reputation! Then I remembered what a jerk I was and realized any defense would be untenable.

I have indeed found that going with gravity is better at our age than fighting gravity. I race downhill mountain bikes now.