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 ADVANCED
End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All 
Cap'm Pissgums 
Days of Future Passed 
Endgame 
Jimmywacky 
Magnus Veritas 
Poetry in Motion 
Son of Gums 
Uncarved Block 
Unknown (L of Endgame) 
Welcome to the Machine 
Unsorted Routes:

Poetry in Motion 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 485', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Brad Smith
Page Views: 1,951
Submitted By: Geir on May 8, 2007
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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent, courageous climb up the west face of End Pinnacle. It is noteworthy not only as a brilliant feat of routefinding, traditional climbing, and boldness but also as the first route up this face of End Pinnacle.

To reach the start of the climb, scramble up the ramp to the left of the start of Welcome to the Machine. At the top of the ramp it is possible to build an anchor with .5"-2" gear.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.6R). Climb up and left from the belay about 70' along featured but runout terrain. You will find a few stopper placements as the climb passes the end of the first pitch of Endgame about 10' to your left. Continue 20' up to a beefy 3/8" bolt shared with Endgame. From here go straight up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (165', 5.10-). This is an excellent pitch. From the anchor step left to a weakness and follow it up approximately 10'. Make a tenuous step right to a second feature that leads to a small roof. Both of these features protect with nuts. Pass the right side of the roof and continue straight up toward a large roof next to a corner. Place a #3 or #4 camalot just below the roof on the right side. Pull the right side of the roof and then step left to an awkward ledge. Clip a bolt and move left around the arete and up to another bolt. From the second bolt, make a move or two up, and then traverse directly left about 20' to chickenheads. The traverse is easy save an early 5.9/10a move. Climb up the chickenheads (5.8) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (190', 5.10- R). From the anchor head up about 15' to a bolt. Continue straight up another 30' to a small bulge and a second bolt above. Make a long run up and left for 50-60 feet of unprotected but easy slab to a third bolt (5.7R). Take a moment to clean your shorts. Continue up and left a few feet to the edge of an alcove, then climb up to a bolt on its right side. Just above the bolt, make a hard move on some grainy rock (10a), and then pass easier terrain to the top of End Pinnacle. Body belay in a deep bowl on top of the pinnacle. A large chickenhead can be tied as a backup.

This climb has multiple runouts and scarce gear. Where gear is available, it can be tricky to place. While this climb is a lot of fun, make sure you are climbing solidly before attempting it.


Location 

See topo


Protection 

Stoppers, cams to at least #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot is helpful on pitch 2.



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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 14, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

Just completed this route today, and had a lot of fun. It is quite bold and a serious Cochise testpiece.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 21, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8

By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 13, 2010

I'm surprised people still talk about these routes. Someone should bolt it up and make it fun (you have my blessing).

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

it's already fun. :)

By Paul Davidson
Apr 14, 2010

Bwwaaahhhaaahhhaaa
You think Steve would bless those bolts, Bradley ?

Where r u these days ? Last I heard, you'd dropped off the face of the climbing planet.

By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 14, 2010

Steve won't find out for years. We're all using i-pads and I bet he's got a printing press :)

Some of my students dug up the pics on this site and showed me. I thought I'd better join and defend my tarnished reputation! Then I remembered what a jerk I was and realized any defense would be untenable.

I have indeed found that going with gravity is better at our age than fighting gravity. I race downhill mountain bikes now.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

On Feb 27th two anchor bolts and four protection bolts were replaced with hardware provided by the ASCA. The anchor on top of pitch 1 is now two Fixe rap anchors. The anchor on top of pitch 2 was already replaced. Two of the original bolts were still in good condition (3/8" split shafts with good stainless steel SMC hangers). These were not replaced as they still have many years left in them. The route is in prime shape now.

We still have to remove a temporary bolt from the top which served as part of the rap anchor as well as a couple of cordalettes and carabiners that were left as we descended. We'll remove these after the closure. If you happen to climb there before us and want to do some public service feel free to grab them.

Many thanks to out-of-towner Bruce B who volunteered to help and to the ASCA for providing the hardware.

Original 3/8" split shaft with Leeper hanger
Original 3/8" split shaft with Leeper hanger


Pulling an original 3/8" split shaft
Pulling an original 3/8" split shaft


The new ASCA bolt after the hole was drilled to 1/2"
The new ASCA bolt after the hole was drilled to 1/2"