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Podstine Rock Climbing
Routes in Podstine
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Galeb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Macri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sirena S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Skarpa S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Supergirl TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Superman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Waiting for Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 38 ft |
| GPS: |
43.17609, 16.42287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 4,272 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Dustin Clelen on Jun 1, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: |
Description
This sunny crag has 30-70 foot high routes that are right above the ocean. The latest guidebook lists 17 routes from 5.7 to 5.12, with most in the 5a-6b+ (5.8-5.11a) range. Because the cliff gets sun all day, this is probably not the place to visit when it's really hot. A large boulder at the base provides some shade for belaying, but on a hot day, climbing at midday would be wilting.
To reach the base of the routes, you must rappel. If you are unsure of your ability to get yourself and your gear back up to the top, it might be worth fixing a rope.
Most people will climb the routes near the large boulder at the base of the wall (from Skarpa to a few routes right of Waiting for Kate). You can easily access all of these climbs from the rappel anchor atop Sirene. Other routes (especially toward the point to the west), have no ledge at the base, so you'd need to get lowered or rappel down to the water's edge and climb back up.
The area is definitely worth a visit if you're looking for relative seclusion and a day's worth of moderate routes right next to the water. If you're looking for a trunkless dip in the Adriatic post-climb, this could also be your place.
To reach the base of the routes, you must rappel. If you are unsure of your ability to get yourself and your gear back up to the top, it might be worth fixing a rope.
Most people will climb the routes near the large boulder at the base of the wall (from Skarpa to a few routes right of Waiting for Kate). You can easily access all of these climbs from the rappel anchor atop Sirene. Other routes (especially toward the point to the west), have no ledge at the base, so you'd need to get lowered or rappel down to the water's edge and climb back up.
The area is definitely worth a visit if you're looking for relative seclusion and a day's worth of moderate routes right next to the water. If you're looking for a trunkless dip in the Adriatic post-climb, this could also be your place.
Getting There
The Cujic guidebook (2017 edition and earlier) is outdated! Since those guides were published, a house has been built at the eastern end of the cliff, effectively blocking access to the climbs from that direction.
The climbs should now be approached from the west, starting at the west end of the vehicle tunnel on the street "Put Podstina," near the Sirena Hotel. This dirt parking area at the west end of the vehicle tunnel has space for 3-5 cars. In the summer, it may be difficult to find a parking spot, as people also swim and fish near the climbing. In fall, winter and spring, parking shouldn't be a problem.
The parking spot can be seen here on Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/gxNpfr25qM32
Note that you cannot drive Put Podstina from downtown Podstine all the way to the west end of the tunnel. The street is blocked to vehicles near the Hotel Podstine, a couple hundred meters to the east of the tunnel. You can walk, ride a scooter or a bicycle along the entire street, but not a car. Use the larger road on the hillside above to reach the west end of the tunnel. By using the Google Maps link above, this is easy.
From the parking spot at the west end of the tunnel, walk down a dirt road about 300 meters to near a point of land. Just as the dirt road ends, there's a telecom manhole cover. Turn left (east) and follow one of several paths along the top of the cliff for about 100 meters. As you walk thru the brush near the cliff edge, you should see some individual anchor bolts on top of the cliff (most were missing hangers in 11-2018). Eventually, you'll come to a little open area with an anchor (a bolt and a thread) that is on top of the cliff. Just below the anchor is a small ledge and from there, you can look down and see the large boulder mentioned in the description. This anchor is above the climb Sirena.
If you don't have a car or the parking is full, you can walk to the crag from downtown Hvar. This walk along the water's edge is mostly on a sidewalk and takes about 30 minutes. As you are walking along the shore from town, you'll get to a point where you can see the cliff in its entirety. The walkway will go into a cove and you'll have to ascend up to the street (the new house at the east end of the cliff blocks further progress). Walk west through the narrow vehicle tunnel to it's west end and the parking spot. Follow the directions above to reach the top of the climbs.
The largest concentration of routes is in a protected area behind a large boulder. Route names are painted within green rectangles at the base of most routes.
The climbs should now be approached from the west, starting at the west end of the vehicle tunnel on the street "Put Podstina," near the Sirena Hotel. This dirt parking area at the west end of the vehicle tunnel has space for 3-5 cars. In the summer, it may be difficult to find a parking spot, as people also swim and fish near the climbing. In fall, winter and spring, parking shouldn't be a problem.
The parking spot can be seen here on Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/gxNpfr25qM32
Note that you cannot drive Put Podstina from downtown Podstine all the way to the west end of the tunnel. The street is blocked to vehicles near the Hotel Podstine, a couple hundred meters to the east of the tunnel. You can walk, ride a scooter or a bicycle along the entire street, but not a car. Use the larger road on the hillside above to reach the west end of the tunnel. By using the Google Maps link above, this is easy.
From the parking spot at the west end of the tunnel, walk down a dirt road about 300 meters to near a point of land. Just as the dirt road ends, there's a telecom manhole cover. Turn left (east) and follow one of several paths along the top of the cliff for about 100 meters. As you walk thru the brush near the cliff edge, you should see some individual anchor bolts on top of the cliff (most were missing hangers in 11-2018). Eventually, you'll come to a little open area with an anchor (a bolt and a thread) that is on top of the cliff. Just below the anchor is a small ledge and from there, you can look down and see the large boulder mentioned in the description. This anchor is above the climb Sirena.
If you don't have a car or the parking is full, you can walk to the crag from downtown Hvar. This walk along the water's edge is mostly on a sidewalk and takes about 30 minutes. As you are walking along the shore from town, you'll get to a point where you can see the cliff in its entirety. The walkway will go into a cove and you'll have to ascend up to the street (the new house at the east end of the cliff blocks further progress). Walk west through the narrow vehicle tunnel to it's west end and the parking spot. Follow the directions above to reach the top of the climbs.
The largest concentration of routes is in a protected area behind a large boulder. Route names are painted within green rectangles at the base of most routes.
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