Found by the Bob Draney and company in the early 90's, this area has evolved into a great sport climbing area. There is a trad route or two out there as well. The rock faces south, so it boils in warm weather, while you can crank on colder days quite happily. One of Cedar City's first crags.
The rock is welded tuff and it is kind of sharp, but nothing too bad. The routes are on average about 60 feet long, so you can bring minimal draws and a short rope if you're so inclined.
Take the 2nd Cedar City exit (exit #59) and go west on 200 N. This road brings you out past the factories and the other industrial-type stuff. Keep to the highway proper.
As you are headed out of town towards the west hills, rock outcroppings appear on your right hand side, the first is Sprocket Rocks, keep driving about 3 minutes and look for the closer (to the road) formations of rock, this is Pocket Rocks. A well-traveled trail leads one up to the cliffs.
Starts out on a good pocket that you can clip the first bolt from, the hands are good through the first couple moves but the feet become kinda sparse. When you get on top of the ledge you will want to clip the higher bolt to protect the crux, and avoid hitting the ledge, but a lower bolt was added to help out some of the shorter climbers.The top section is really good climbing with a couple big reaches, surprisingly enough you might start to feel a little pump even though it doesn’t look very st...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
We followed the directions in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition (turn right onto a dirt road .5 miles past the "public lands" sign, stay left at each fork) and managed to get to within about 1/8 mile of the approach trailhead in the low-clearance family minivan. The road wasn't horrible, and only elicited occasional cries of, "What do you think you're doing to my car?!", usually heard immediately following ominous scraping noises.
Contrary to the guidebook, the trail starts at the road's end and was marked by a cairn with a stick in it.
The BLM has recently shredded much of the pinyon/juniper scrub at the base of the Swett Hills. The area looks like the Martian devastated landscape from the 2005 movie War of the Worlds. A side effect of this landscape "improvement" is that the approach road is obscured by brush and not passable for 2WD vehicles.