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World's Greatest Boulder
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Love Shack 
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Pocket Rocket 
Size Ain't Shit 
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Pocket Rocket 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Chapman
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Aaron Merriam on May 23, 2009
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Aaron on the beginning of pocket rocket. Ignore t...

Description 

Short but good route on the Worlds Greatest Boulder. Starts on a sidepull and strong moves up to the obvious line running up right. Move along the good holds to get to the crux. Move off the good holds to a solid vertical slot with your left. Pull hard into this to a small sloping dish with a good thumb-catch with your right and set high feet. Pull off the dish up left to a sloping topout scramble.


Location 

The boulder is located at the edge of the water after taking a right out of the main canyon and walking 300-400 feet down river. The route is on the canyon side of the boulder.


Protection 

This route can be either toproped or lead. The lead is a bit scary with only 2 bolts and a groundfall from the clip at the second bolt. Good toprope anchors but be sure to have a few feet of slings to get the over the edge.



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By crankenstein
Dec 30, 2009

Just a little history here to set the record straight. Fall of 1986? Bill Gooch, Jeff Johnson and I top roped this and decided that the first of us to free it would sit back and watch the other two put in a bolt each and then the winner would get the first try to lead it. I won and Pocket Rocket became the first route with bolts at Reimer's Ranch. The bolts were hand drilled self tapping caving anchors that fortunately have been replaced. Thanks to Bill and Jeff for helping jump start my motivation to develop the early climbs at Reimer's.