Pocket Pussy 5.12a
| 569 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008 |
| |
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Although this is a short route, all of the moves will keep you thinking! Start on the left edge of the wall climbing up using the arete to reach the first bolt. From here traverse right to reach a great pocket. Dyno up to reach another great hold and 3rd bolt. From here, use small holds and shallow pockets to eventually gain a thin flake and clip the 4th bolt. Continue straight up using a crimp or two to reach the obvious jug. Jugs from here out to reach the ledge and shuts.
Location This route is located on the gray wall immediately to the right of Diversity in Microcosm and just to the left of a tree and The Plug.
Protection 4 bolts, shuts.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 25, 2009
| The start is a little inobvious (it looks like it might go direct without the arete to the left, but the moves are NOT 12a...), but once you gain the first bolt, the moves are engaging and surprisingly sustained. From the bottom, the route doesn't look steep, but you end up hanging on your hands quite a bit. Fabulous route, fabulous pockets.
Also, if anyone says this route is height dependent, they're wrong. My fiancee is 5'4" and she figured out a great sequence. |
|
RSS Feed
6 more...
