This newer route (listed in the appendix of Van Horn's guide) is located up on a pedestal to the left of You Snooze You Lose. It may be a notch easier than 12a. Forget the grade and get on the route for while you're solving the pocket puzzle you'll be having a blast. One can reduce the grade further by stemming out right across the dihedral, quite often if one is tall or flexible. I suggest you resist the urge and pull the pockets directly. Quality stone and thoughtful moves, yet a little short and gets sandy on the right due to runoff.
5 bolts to anchor.
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Dec 27, 2001
I second the opinion that it probably is easier then 12a. The route is extremely squeezed onto the tiny face and at almost any point one can stem over to the right (or grab the arete to the left; to keep the grade up, put on your blinders and take the straight and narrow path. The pockets are pretty sweet although short. I thought the crux was passing the slightly chossy band just below the anchors.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 21, 2003
I think Shelf grades are usually pretty accurate but this is way off. 11c and maybe soft at that compared to others at the grade at Shelf.
|By Ashley Gann|
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Great route, a little short but worth the time! It does soften up quite a bit at the last bolt, if it were sustained the whole way definitely 4 stars! Also it is definitely 12a if you're short, makes the moves a lot bigger and harder.
|By Buster Jesik|
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Maybe there's a way to contrive a .12a sequence, but I didn't find it. The opening moves are a little thin, but really positive. 11b.