Pocket Full of Cryptonite 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Andy Brown, 1994 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.
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Description This route is located just uphill from "Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin. This is the route directly under the anchor at the top right of the Fin. You will want to stick clip the first bolt, as this is where the business is located. The hard climbing starts from the ground up, grab the large open handed ledge and go up and left to a good crimp, From here paste your feet up and look for a crimp by the bolt, just below. You will also have another crimp just to the right of the bolt. The feet are fairly tricky and the crimps will be a little sharp from here on, climb on small feet and mini crimps to the second bolt, long reach up and left to clip the second bolt, fro mhere head a little right gaining some better holds and onward to the 3rd bolt. Once at the 3rd bolt the climbing eases considerably. A great route, although short, it will definitely make you think and force you to crimp down hard !! Beauty line, too bad so short.
This submission was originally submitted with the same spelling as in the Gillett Estes Valley guidebook.
Protection 3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor (Shared with others on the Dinosaur's Foot). This was originally noted in the Gillett guidebook as having 4 bolts. Now, the first bolt is been removed and a bolt sleeve remains.
Location This route is located just uphill from ""Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin.
BETA PHOTO: Short, sweet, stiff...whatever the spelling.
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| Comments on Pocket Full of Cryptonite |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11+
| Watch out for the clips on such small holds. They'd be easy enough to blow, though it was amazing how well the feet stick here.
My weakness is thin face, particularly on sloping or slanting holds. Being a lower-evolved creature, resembling in some ways a gorilla, this is not my specialty. Furthermore, 5.12s are usually pretty difficult for me regardless of their nature. Still, I was able to do this route without much issue, and not much more trouble than with the 5.11a to the left, "Little Toe Jam." This leads me to suspect that the grade of this climb may be over-estimated. Or, perhaps I was just having a great day and L.T.J. was under-graded.
Either way, a good climb with fun moves on solid holds... no matter how small or hard to find. |
By JKoehn
Oct 3, 2011
| This is a fun little climb! Climbs better than it looks...start felt breezy by popping my right hand into the small undercling just off the chunky start hold...just sayin'. |
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