Start as for Rim Job but take the right bolt line and follow steepening jugs and pockets all the way to the top of the wall. Surely a contender for the best of its grade in the Gorge, this route has become an instant classic. Anyone know the name?
Up on the ledge a bit right of Love Stinks
By Tavis Ricksecker From: Bishop, ca Mar 1, 2012
Lower off to the ledge with a 70m, need an 80m to lower all the way to the ground. Watch your rope ends!
By Tom Helvie From: Bishop, CA Mar 1, 2012
I believe the name is Pocket Dance and I also think that Karine Croft got the FA.
By Patty From: Reno Apr 3, 2012
You are so right. I just got to climb this on Sunday and she was there climbing it!
By Simon W Oct 9, 2013
Awesome climb. Looks too steep for 10c from the ground but the holds are all awesome when the climbing steepens.
I believe its 12 bolts (if you clip a bolt way off to your left when Pocket Dance parts ways with Rim Job, kind of pointless), plus 2 bolt mussy anchor. Theme song for the upper half of the climb: VIDEO
By Jeff Scheuerell Nov 17, 2013 rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I skip the bolt off to the left unless my second plans on leading the route as well and I leave the draws hung. But clipping it isn't pointless if you fall before getting to the next bolt..
Great route, one of my Gorge favorites
By Simon W Jan 10, 2014
Very true. Clipping that bolt would not be pointless if you fell there!
If my memory serves correctly the moves are somewhere in the 5.9 range in that area..
By Jeff Scheuerell Jan 11, 2014 rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maybe only 5.8. The climb is only 10c but I've seen Croft clip every bolt.
Regardless, my vote for best 5.10 in the Gorge unless you count Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic but that one always feels 11- to me.