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Start as for Rim Job but take the right bolt line and follow steepening jugs and pockets all the way to the top of the wall. Surely a contender for the best of its grade in the Gorge, this route has become an instant classic. Anyone know the name?
Up on the ledge a bit right of Love Stinks
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Mar 1, 2012
Lower off to the ledge with a 70m, need an 80m to lower all the way to the ground. Watch your rope ends!
|By Tom Helvie|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 1, 2012
I believe the name is Pocket Dance and I also think that Karine Croft got the FA.
Apr 3, 2012
You are so right. I just got to climb this on Sunday and she was there climbing it!
|By Simon W|
Oct 9, 2013
Awesome climb. Looks too steep for 10c from the ground but the holds are all awesome when the climbing steepens.
I believe its 12 bolts (if you clip a bolt way off to your left when Pocket Dance parts ways with Rim Job, kind of pointless), plus 2 bolt mussy anchor.
Theme song for the upper half of the climb:
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I skip the bolt off to the left unless my second plans on leading the route as well and I leave the draws hung. But clipping it isn't pointless if you fall before getting to the next bolt..
Great route, one of my Gorge favorites