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 ADVANCED
The First Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acme Top Rope Wall 
Agua Negro 
Before The Storm 
Brand X Top Rope Wall 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) 
Middle Earth 
Pocket Change 
Rise and Shine 
Sophie's Choice 
Spider's Line 
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) 
Unsorted Routes:

Pocket Change 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Aug 20, 2012
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Description 

"Pocket Change" follows a left leaning line of bolts up a featured slab and pockets to a bulge. Four bolts protect the initial slab and bulge. Aim for a large polished grey cobble just above the bulge and three bolts that provide a TR anchor for the slab below. Continue up left of the anchor past large inclusions and pockets which facilitate pulling through a series of three bulges with large featured inclusions and pockets. Six more bolts lead to runout, but easy face climbing to the anchor. Shares an anchor with "Tethys" & "Middle Earth," on the northwest shoulder of The Chicken.


Location 

Located left of "Aqua Negro" and "Itsy Bitsy Spider" on the east wall of The Canyon. Begin 6 ft. left of "Aqua Negro, " right where the base of the canyon slopes downhill.


Protection 

10 bolts & 3 bolt anchor with a mass of chains. Shares a 1st bolt with "Itsy Bitsy Spider." There is a direct start up the initial slab which features 3 bolts.



Photos of Pocket Change Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing on the lower slab of "Pocket Change."
Climbing on the lower slab of "Pocket Change."
A party on the 2nd pitch of "Pocket Change." The climber in the white, in the background, is on "Middle Earth," while the uppermost climber is at the P1 anchor of "Cascada" (aka Aqua Negro).
A party on the 2nd pitch of "Pocket Change." The c...
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By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 31, 2014

Why is this listed as 'Trad?' Sounds like it is fully bolted.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 31, 2014

The route is not bolted like a typical sport route. There is wide spacing between some bolts. If you check many of the face climbs at Suicide Rock or Joshua Tree they are listed as trad routes, due to bolt spacing. No gear other than quickdraws is necessary.
Ten bolts in 140 feet, you do the math.