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The Vault
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Handyman T 
Holiday In Cambodia S 
Illusions S 
Jewel Of The Wild S 
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Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 
Pocket Change S 
Potato Chipper S 
Precious Stone S 
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What's the Combo? S 
Unsorted Routes:

Pocket Change 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008

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Description 

Pocket Change ascends the beaultiful, white face left of the "Illusions" arete. The rock is excellent, but the route lacks a clearly defined line, which detracts from the quality of the experience. Begin with easy climbing past the first bolt to an easy mantle onto the large ledge. The crux comes above the second bolt, with desperate liebacks & arete slaps. A fall near the 3rd bolt would not be pretty, with the ledge only a few feet below the second bolt. Above the 3rd bolt, the climbing remains difficult as the route wanders far to each side of the bolt line.

Location 

The furthest left (S) route at the Vault. Climbs the wall left of the "Illusions" arete.

Protection 

5 bolts. Take care reaching the 3rd bolt.


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 8, 2008

I thought I would really like this route, since it looks so good, but the natural weaknesses are so far from the bolts it felt like I was climbing off route the entire time. It seemed like the FA wanted to "off-route" the arete, but I don't see how it would go at 5.11 without it.