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A beautiful, technical, and quite sequency route, this route stands out as one of the best I have been on in New Mexico. A confusing start, watch the chalked sloper and go for the jug right of it, and clip the first bolt. Trend slightly left through difficult crimpy terrain and clip the second. After the second you will swing back slightly to the right. Keep going, tricky, balancy moves, crimpers and a few jugs will get you to the anchors. The top is run out but the holds are GREAT!
Most people call this route an 11c, as does the old black Enchanted Tower guidebook (out of print). For some reason (not explained) Dennis R. Jackson in his new Climbing New Mexico guidebook bumped it up to a 5.11d. Personally I am split between the grades. As Socorro tends to be quite sequency and technical in the first place, it would probably compare to other 5.11c's at Socorro. However, compared to other places in the state (i.e. Enchanted Tower), this route would be called 5.11d. Take your pick!
On the Far left side of Pocket Change Wall.
5 bolts to chain anchors.
Oct 22, 2010
FA: Gramont, Tom Kalakay, Jean de Lataillade