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Poaching Bighorn 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig Fry, February 1985
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

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Relieved after placing a #2 camalot right above th...

Description 

Near the left side of the north face is a varnished right facing corner with an RP crack. It soon widens and leads to a small ledge. Go left on the ledge to a crack that leads to the top. Excellent rock.

Protection 

very thin to 2"


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By Vernon Stiefel
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This Central Wonderland classic entails about 170' of stellar climbing. Be careful of two loose blocks in the crack at the top of the cruxy dihedral section. It is easy to set up an anchor by looping rope around a huge horn. There are slings around a horn at the top of "Greenhorn Dihedral" to rap from. You can make one rappel to the ground with double ropes. We left a carabiner on the slings to lower the friction when retrieving the ropes.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 2, 2004

Randy threatened to name this route Bad Karma after Craig "stole" the FA of this route from him. Poaching Bighorn is a bit less inflammatory as a route name.
By Craig Fry
Apr 12, 2006

Heres the true story, re told from letter RV
Do you remember that route that RV accused me of stealing from him in the Climbing magazine article(he was the correspondant supplying new route information)(which we all thank him for).
Well, it was actually me, stealing my route back from myself, after Randy's steal attempt failed. Here's the story, I wanted to bring our group of friends (RV,DE,CC)* to a new area (that I had scoped with the Stahl bros,Dec 16,84*). Where we can all do a bunch of 1st ascents, it would be fun. I led us to the Cornerstone area and we all did a bunch of FAs*. During that same day, I showed RV and everybody else there, the Poddle Smasher*(by far the best line, but not our name)*, farther up the canyon, and said I'm waiting to get together w/ the Stahl Bros so we all can do it as a group(since we all found it together), in a couple weeks. Then I showed him another secret crag I had found and pointed out the best line, I said I was planning to do this route the next time I get out(if you want to come along RV, I'll let you know when).
So, according to the guide book, that day at the Cornerstone was Jan 1985(Jan 6)*. The Poddle Smashers FA was also recorded in Jan 1985*,(days or weeks after the Cornerstone)* by RV,Paul Switzer and CCole in said guidebook. This was assumed to also be the same day that Rv and Paul attempted to steal the my last remaining good route (there were 100s of other so-so routes out there), Poaching Bighorns (my secret project for us (DE, RV, CC everybody else) to do next time. But, just before the crux 5.11 section*(lower 1/3), they had to bail(?), leaving a fixed nut. After that, they left it for a couple weeks, maybe trying to round up a stronger party (though I wasn't invited). But, I did go out the next time, Feb 10,1985, and I decided that I want to do my new route, now, since they obviously didn't succeed in stealing it. So I ended up stealing it back from myself. see
  • verified information
By Murf
Apr 12, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

It has been 20 years now Craig, maybe time to let it go.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 5, 2011

^^^subman++