|By Craig Fry|
Apr 12, 2006
Heres the true story, re told from letter RV
Do you remember that route that RV accused me of stealing from him in the Climbing magazine article(he was the correspondant supplying new route information)(which we all thank him for).
Well, it was actually me, stealing my route back from myself, after Randy's steal attempt failed. Here's the story, I wanted to bring our group of friends (RV,DE,CC)* to a new area (that I had scoped with the Stahl bros,Dec 16,84*). Where we can all do a bunch of 1st ascents, it would be fun. I led us to the Cornerstone area and we all did a bunch of FAs*. During that same day, I showed RV and everybody else there, the Poddle Smasher*(by far the best line, but not our name)*, farther up the canyon, and said I'm waiting to get together w/ the Stahl Bros so we all can do it as a group(since we all found it together), in a couple weeks. Then I showed him another secret crag I had found and pointed out the best line, I said I was planning to do this route the next time I get out(if you want to come along RV, I'll let you know when).
So, according to the guide book, that day at the Cornerstone was Jan 1985(Jan 6)*. The Poddle Smashers FA was also recorded in Jan 1985*,(days or weeks after the Cornerstone)* by RV,Paul Switzer and CCole in said guidebook. This was assumed to also be the same day that Rv and Paul attempted to steal the my last remaining good route (there were 100s of other so-so routes out there), Poaching Bighorns (my secret project for us (DE, RV, CC everybody else) to do next time. But, just before the crux 5.11 section*(lower 1/3), they had to bail(?), leaving a fixed nut. After that, they left it for a couple weeks, maybe trying to round up a stronger party (though I wasn't invited). But, I did go out the next time, Feb 10,1985, and I decided that I want to do my new route, now, since they obviously didn't succeed in stealing it. So I ended up stealing it back from myself. see