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The West face contains the majority of technical climbs for Sugar Loaf Mtn. However the east side, facing the Atlantic Ocean, is the home of a fun 4th Class route with one small section of 5th Class near the top. Also to be found are a series of boulders, some bolted, off the trail on your right. Beautiful weather year round brings many to the top of Sugar Loaf, but if you would like to avoid the overly advertised Cable car, but are lacking the technical climbing gear ( and dont want to pay the outrageous fees to buy in town) this route to the top and the bouldering at the base is a great option.
At the base of Babilonia wall, near the Cable car station and the obvious parking lot, is the beginning of a beachside trail/paved road that leads around the southern base. This trail is the accesspoint for most climbs on the Sugar Loaf. The trail also passes some bolted climbs on your right, down by the surf, as you begin to curve around to the East side. Eventually this paved trail ( which is frequented by Brazilian navy officers doing their PT) ends and a dirt path begins to turn up and left off the coast. Soon you will be stepping your way on cement poured "stones" on a super low angle slab as you near the 'start' of this 'climb'
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Featured Route For Pão de Açúcar- South/East Side
Costão Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c South America : Brazil : ... : Pão de Açúcar- South/East S...
As described in the the East Side section, as the trail ends and you begin to head up the low angle face, you will encounter intermittent areas of vegetation and bare slab. The hard, textured Gneiss makes for good friction and the long sections of easy slab in this beautiful setting are very enjoyable. Soon you reach a blocky face section of 5.4-5.6 climbing. Really its about two moves and your back on 4th class terrain. There is a placard on the wall here noting the dangerous terrain, advising ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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