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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schillaci, 9/89
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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P.M.S. is a popular warmup at BONP, and is the easiest of the sport climbs at the crag.

Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out.

If you can control your hormones, try it without using the arete; this is a really fun 5.11 with thin edges & pockets, and doesn't seem too contrived.

Be careful not to send the loose gravel on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.


The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). At least 2 guidebooks say "only 3 bolts", but there are really 4 (the highest bolt is newer?).

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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Nice, clean, and sustained climbing but still the easiest sport route at BTONP.

The face on the left (with the arete off) is a pretty fun 5.11-. Worth doing if you're looking for something here at that grade.