|The Nappy Dugout
While not jaw-droppingly stunning from the ground, this is 5.10 limestone face climbing at its best, with consistently incut holds on consistently steep terrain. It's very popular as a morning route, so be ready to stand in line. Two adjacent routes (Ivory Tower and Lee Sheftel's new route [name?]) at similar grades and a nice elevated view of a pretty stretch of river make this a nice hang.
Both of these routes are up and right of the Nappy Dugout (or Shit Cave, as it was known before porta-potties were installed in the Canyon) and start from the top of the dirt cone. PMS is the middle route and starts on easy, ledgy rock to reach a high first bolt behind the tree.
Continue past the bolt into a faint corner which terminates in a steep face. Sustained climbing takes you to an aesthetic finish on hidden holds.
BETA PHOTO: Climber: Megan Cerise.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 8, 2003
This is an absolutely phenomenal route for the grade. Arguably, the best 10 at Rifle and not to be missed. During the summer, the sun hits the route by 1 or 2, so get there early.
|By Adri.n Robert|
From: boulder, co
Jun 5, 2006
I agree with that.. we got on at 3-4 in the roasting sun; the moves felt a lot harder than they needed to be, but hey I like loose slacklines for that same reason.
Apr 20, 2007
Everything is there, but it is really pumpy. The only crux for this climb is clipping the bolts. I failed and took a 20 foot whipper! PMS is a MUST climb!
|By Evan Winn|
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It climbs so smoothly and consistantly. Good technique is very rewarded as is liiking where you can't see chalk.
|By Kirstyn Leuner|
From: Lebanon, NH
Jun 29, 2014
Yesterday, a large block just above the first bolt and to the left ripped off when my leader gently pulled on it. It was one of the topmost blocks in the chossy, slick shelf system at the bottom of the route. We cleaned off remaining loose chunks and put an "x" on one of them. Be careful in that low section before the good rock starts.