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Decadent Wall
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Pluton Playground 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 25, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Starting Pluton Playground; route follows dark chi...

Description 

The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.

Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.

The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.

Location 

This route is towards the far left on the Decadent Wall, Left; it's roughly 35 feet right of a large chimney which marks the end of the Decadent Wall proper. It begins in an alcove and involves a short scramble to the initial moves of the climb.

Protection 

Standard rack, including a 4" Camalot.


Photos of Pluton Playground Slideshow Add Photo
Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.
BETA PHOTO: Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.

Comments on Pluton Playground Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 25, 2011

This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon.
By aed
From: Jackson, WY
Aug 26, 2014

Climbed this one, and took a leftward trending hand crack that is about halfway up the red line, then finished in the hand crack that tops out at what looks like the highest point on the crag in this photo.
Good gear, a bit more challenging than the line shown, but still really mellow. Makes the route more fun in my opinion.