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Decadent Wall
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Pluton Playground 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 25, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Starting Pluton Playground; route follow...

Description 

The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.

Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.

The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.


Location 

This route is towards the far left on the Decadent Wall, Left; it's roughly 35 feet right of a large chimney which marks the end of the Decadent Wall proper. It begins in an alcove and involves a short scramble to the initial moves of the climb.


Protection 

Standard rack, including a 4" Camalot.



Photos of Pluton Playground Slideshow Add Photo
Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.
BETA PHOTO: Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.
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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 25, 2011

This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon.