The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.
Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.
The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.
This route is towards the far left on the Decadent Wall, Left; it's roughly 35 feet right of a large chimney which marks the end of the Decadent Wall proper. It begins in an alcove and involves a short scramble to the initial moves of the climb.
Standard rack, including a 4" Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.
|Comments on Pluton Playground
|By Rodger Raubach|
Oct 25, 2011
This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon.