Pluton Playground  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Unknown Season:  Summer-Fall Submitted By:  Rodger Raubach on Oct 25, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Starting Pluton Playground; route follow...

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Description 

The route follows a gully-chimney, and is best climbed left side in; upwards movement is facilitated by profuse, positive holds on the right face. Pro possibilities abound. Only occasionally are any chimney-type moves required, and those only for rests while finding the chickenheads and huecos on the face. The well-featured rock salvages what would otherwise be a grovel fest "Bomb" from obscurity.

Descend to climber's left down the chimney; we stayed roped for this and caution is advised.

The climbing is suitble for beginners, but the descent is a bit sketchy.

Location 

This route is towards the far left on the Decadent Wall, Left; it's roughly 35 feet right of a large chimney which marks the end of the Decadent Wall proper. It begins in an alcove and involves a short scramble to the initial moves of the climb.

Protection 

Standard rack, including a 4" Camalot.

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BETA PHOTO: Route beta, and arrow shows descent gully.