Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adirondack Rehabilitation 
Amnesia Chasm 
Amphitheatre Crack 
Birthday Corner 
Black Arch ArÍte 
Broken Broom 
Carpenter & Das 
Cranium 
Critical Crimps 
Crossway 
Dexter's Dugout 
Drive 
E-stim 
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It 
Four Ounces to Freedom 
Full Recovery 
Gun Show 
Hang Time 
Here I Go Again 
Impulse Drive 
Intensive Care 
Lane Change 
Outpatient 
Parallel Passage 
Pinch an Inch 
Plumb Line 
Post Op 
Recuperation Boulevard 
Reducto Adductor 
Renegade 
Scaredy Cat 
Second Job 
Side Show 
Sleepy Hollow 
Suicidal Sydney 
Tilly's Trench 
Torcher 
Tribulations 

Plumb Line 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jamie McNeill, Alysia Catalfamo, Jay Harrison 8/3/09
New Route: Yes
Season: May- September
Page Views: 1,599
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Aug 28, 2009
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Jamie McNeill sends the FA, August 3rd, 2009.

Description 

P1: Climb up left on small ramps to a stance on top of a tooth-shaped, 2' high flake (same start as Parallel Passage). Traverse R to the crack and then climb the crack directly up through the overhang to the top (100') or to fixed anchors at 80'.
V1: Plumb Line Direct 5.11c
Climb directly up the seam/thin crack from the Patio.
NOTE 4/27/2013: A large chunk of this climb fell down over the winter: a 20' tall, 5' wide, 4' thick block which comprised the right side of the overhang crux section of the route. Looks probable that, once the rock dust is swept off, I suspect this will make the route easier.


Location 

The Black Arches Wall is accessible by a 1/2 hour walk along a good herd path through the Boulderwoods and up along the side of the mountain, passing the Measles Wall and South Corner Cliffs along the way.

Start: This route begins on the "Patio", a ledge over a 30-40', scruffy slab, 50' R of Black Arch ArÍte, at a dead-vertical, thin crack/seam splitting a 12' wide square-cut buttress.


Protection 

All Trad: nuts and small to medium cams.
There is a fixed anchor (Two 3 1/2" bolts with ss rap anchors, August 2009) after passing the difficult climbing, at 80'



Photos of Plumb Line Slideshow Add Photo
plumb line from the patio ledge. The attic belay ledge can be seen up and right.
BETA PHOTO: plumb line from the patio ledge. The attic belay l...
Alex on Plumb Line.
Alex on Plumb Line.
Not easy getting to the crux on Plumb Line
Not easy getting to the crux on Plumb Line
Jamie McNeill heading toward the crux of <em>Plumb Line</em>.
Jamie McNeill heading toward the crux of Plumb...
Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically.  Well at least the crux from the Patio on up. The real crux is apparently on the slab below the Patio level. From the Patio the crux, according to Doc, is not the overhanging crack move but the delicate climbing beneath it.
Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically. Well at...
Doc not finding it easy to get to the crux on Plumb Line
Doc not finding it easy to get to the crux on Plum...
Alex into the difficulties, scoping the line.
Alex into the difficulties, scoping the line.
Doc on Plumb Line
Doc on Plumb Line
Alex poised at the crux(?) of the upper part of Plumb Line. Alex got the crux with a dynamic move, I blew the shot.
Alex poised at the crux(?) of the upper part of Pl...
Comments on Plumb Line Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Is this .10c or .11a?

By losbill
Jun 27, 2011

I am confused by Jim's comment. If you start from the Patio, thus avoiding the difficult slab what does it go at? And while we are at it, what is the rating for the climbing up the slab to the Patio?

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Straight up is .11c. Alternatively, you can start on the neighboring route to the left and traverse in above the .11c part, making the route (in my opinion) .10d/.11a.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Aug 6, 2011

this route looks amazing, has anyone done the direct start yet?

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 29, 2013

The direct start is 11-something (I believe Jim is correct with 11c). Jamie McNeill has since returned to send the direct start.

There was rock fall early 2013 and the top of this route has been severely altered. Word is that the route can still be climbed and protected but has changed significantly in the final ~20 feet. If you know how to reach him, contact Jay Harrison for more information.

Note regarding the rock fall was added to the route description above.

By Ben J.
From: NY
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is a great route. If you don't want any thoughts on gear, read no further. However, saving a small cam (0 or 00 TCU or equivalent... I think the 00 would work a little better?) for the end of this climb will be very reassuring. Might want to bring two of that small size.