Plumb Line 5.10a
| 2,423 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | FA: Ted Wilson, FFA: George Lowe, 1968 |
| Submitted By: | Vince Romney on Mar 22, 2004 |
| |
Tim nabbing the OS!
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Below and slightly east of the The Thumb is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical. Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line. Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins). Follow the approach description under The Thumb
. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.
Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack. Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation - 5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack). Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.
When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.
Protection Small to medium nuts and small cams to 1.5"
Vince looks thankfully back down after an early as...
|
BETA PHOTO: the line runs right under the tree
|
pretty darn good...if only it was 600ft. longer
|
This climb is brought to you in part due to genero...
| | |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| A great climb just kind of short. I didn't use anything larger than a .75 camalot or maybe a #1. Fun finger locks until it widens to a more rattling finger size. |
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an interesting layback/double-gaston/slap-for-the-jug combination. Microcams are the order of the day. A little longer, and this would be a 3-star route. Worth the hike. |
By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2005
| Some other fun routes in the area are Hangman 9+, and Boomerang 10a. Bring multiple yellow TCU's for Boomerang. Great pitch, that sees little traffic so it can be gritty, REALLY a great climb though. Crux feels like if you popped you'd snap all your fingers! YIKES! Probably not, but a way fun route! Give it a try, and recomend it to others, so it will stay clean. |
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 13, 2006
| This is a really satisfying lead! |
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| What a great climb and a fun lead! Got in some marginal small stoppers at the start, then got a bomber #5 stopper in to to protect the crux. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 13, 2010
| This is a plumb of a line! Great for practicing sewing skills - nuts to .75 and thanks so much for the new anchors that will save the beautiful Mahogany! |
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Wow! Amazing move after amazing move! All the cruxes are well protected. Awesome, awesome climb. |
|
RSS Feed
55 more...
Slideshow
