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Routes in Broads Fork
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Broad Expectations S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Haven for Heathens S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kid Gloves S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Misery S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Penthouse Pauper, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Plimsol Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Stuart Ruckman, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,355 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Jul 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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The route
Climb past 6 bolts up the ever-steepening prow using juggy holds at first then hard pinches and crimps and even a few sloppers up high for good measure.
The climbing is fairly sustained and the long burly moves at the crux will feel harder than 12b due to the pump factor and the feet which insist on not being where you need them.
Keep a bit of forearm strength for the awkward and sloppy moves that get you on the ramp at the 6th bolt or you'll flail within reach of the anchors...
Finally, watch your head as you try to avoid guano up on the ramp, there are a few skull-cracking blocks looming.
Helmet needed on a sport route?? Is this Hellgate??
The climbing is fairly sustained and the long burly moves at the crux will feel harder than 12b due to the pump factor and the feet which insist on not being where you need them.
Keep a bit of forearm strength for the awkward and sloppy moves that get you on the ramp at the 6th bolt or you'll flail within reach of the anchors...
Finally, watch your head as you try to avoid guano up on the ramp, there are a few skull-cracking blocks looming.
Helmet needed on a sport route?? Is this Hellgate??
The place
Plimsol Line is the third bolted route as you walk along the Broads Fork wall. It climbs the impressive steep prow just to the right of the blackened-rock section, maybe 10' right of the old fire pit.
The first bolt is shared with the flakalicious route Misery
The first bolt is shared with the flakalicious route Misery
The pro
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (well, 2 rusty glue-in eye-bolts to be accurate). Watch where the rope runs when lowering, sharp holds abound.
Don't miss the 6th bolt, it's up over the lip a bit to the right of the line.
Avoid falling on bolt 3 as the hanger is facing up and would be subject to a huge amount of torque if weighted.
Don't miss the 6th bolt, it's up over the lip a bit to the right of the line.
Avoid falling on bolt 3 as the hanger is facing up and would be subject to a huge amount of torque if weighted.
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