Pleasure By Ambush  V6-7

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Type:  Boulder, 8 feet Consensus:  V5-6 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  j.jaeger on Jan 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start right of Gerbil in a Chute, under the small, chossy roof, with hands on two crimpy edges shoulder width appart and each about 3 feet off the dirt. If you are tall, you can sit. Otherwise, it's a crouching start.

Pull on and either huck to an obvious jug diagonally up and right, or use a sloping crimp to shorten the desperate stab.

This is really a one-move wonder that can feel hard for 7 on some days and way easy for 6 on others.

Using generous holds, top out the backside slab of the Punani Block, being mindful of loose and fragile rock. A broken hold from here would spit you onto the rocky slab behind the problem.

Note: I gave this problem a name simply for the sake of future identification/discussion. This line has been climbed many times over the years at different stages of its erosion. The edges have seemed to round-off enough now that it may finally be stable.

Protection 

A couple of pads or one big pad would be helpful, since spotting on dynamic lowballs never works well.