Please tell us what language you speak
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I think I have reached my limit reading someone's route description which describes cracks as if we all have the same rack. The straw that broke the camalot's back was this |
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Pretty standard way to describe cracks besides the generic "fist, thin hands, etc". |
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Or is is still Friends sizing? (though I've not placed a Friend in at least a decade) |
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It says it all right here: |
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A little bit of German. Alex: Die risse sind 25 cm. Thomas: Shiesse!! ich hab keine Big Bros. |
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Rob Dillon wrote:"The chimney quickly shrinks to #5's, then #4's, then #3's... "Definitely mastercams on that one. |
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Look. We live in a world of lazy ass no gooders. Thought is painful for all too many. A good route description would tell you the size of the crack (in inches perhaps). Then, it is up to you to decide the appropriate gear. |
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^^^^ exactly |
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Those are big bro sizes - duh. |
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Unless someone says Friend, they are talking about Camalots. |
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Rob - I have fixed the route description you are referring to. But since, you got to rant about it, I get to rant as well: |
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I thought it was West Coast: Friends |
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Glenn Schuler wrote:A little bit of German. Alex: Die risse sind 25 cm. Thomas: Shiesse!! ich hab keine Big Bros.+++1 PS: isn't it 'ich habe'...... |
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......and to add a small rant...... The size change that BD did on their cams drive me crazy. I know exactly what a 3.5, 4 or 4.5 crack is...... But now I have to mentally change..... Plus if for example i am told I 'need' a #5 for the anchor, is that a new or old #5...... |
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Rob Dillon wrote:I think I have reached my limit reading someone's route description which describes cracks as if we all have the same rack. The straw that broke the camalot's back was this "The chimney quickly shrinks to #5's, then #4's, then #3's... " but it could have been anyone. For god's sake, if you have the time to write this stuff up, tell us what #3 or .75 or whatever means to you! There must be a solid dozen brands of camming unit in common use... End rant. Thanks.I prefer to use the colors of the pro to be used in route discriptions. Something like this: The route starts out as a green size then goes to red, then continues as orange, and finished up with blue. Personally I think that will help to take all ambiguity out of route descriptions. |
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cjdrover, don't take it personally! You just happened to be there and you are clearly conscientious, as you actually took the time to adjust a route description to meet some random stranger's criteria. And that route looks amazing. |
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"Sizes in camalots: 2 each #3,4 and 5. A # 3.5 and #4.0 friend might be good alternatives." |
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Mia Tucholke wrote: +++1 PS: isn't it 'ich habe'......well yes, that would be proper. But they're Bavarian. (I am a hack when it comes to german spelling/grammar) |
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Glenn Schuler wrote: well yes, that would be proper. But they're Bavarian. (I am a hack when it comes to german spelling/grammar)Sehr gluecklich. |