Please explain

We saw this at Pickens Nose today and, well. Just look.

Disaster

My guess: one set of anchors was older and getting sketchy, so somebody added a new set but didn't see fit to remove the old anchors?

How far off the ground was this? In the picture, I counted six bolts all within one to two feet apart and placed in a random way. My guess is someone was "practicing" placing bolts. Why would anyone do this? Why not do this in a manner that might produce an actual climbing route? Or was the bolter just too lazy?

The only words I have are WTF.

There can only be one explanation...

youtu.be/seluTSIqoQ4?t=9m48s

Chop.

No need for that crap in North Carolina...chop and reuse the hangers for a new route. I wouldn't trust those bolts, if some moron placed 6 that close together it shows they are clueless in the first place.

Highline perhaps?

Slackline/highline?!?

I hate how people's knee jerk reaction is to chop. The bolts are already there, the damage already done. Do your research and figure out what they were put there for first before you go destroying stuff, the rock is scarred either way may as well keep it usable until it is determined 100% they are not needed for any activity(might not be climbing)

Is there a reasonable walk-up approach to this point? This may be for rappelling. There are similar installations atop Whiteside that include a number of bolts of varying types and security. These are often used for rappelling and/or ascending, frequently by cavers looking to practice those skills.

I assumed highline anchor as well.

Magpie79 wrote:How far off the ground was this? In the picture, I counted six bolts all within one to two feet apart and placed in a random way. My guess is someone was "practicing" placing bolts. Why would anyone do this? Why not do this in a manner that might produce an actual climbing route? Or was the bolter just too lazy? The only words I have are WTF.

Is my eyesight that bad? I only count 5.

Stagg54 wrote: Is my eyesight that bad? I only count 5.

hay seis ese

boltz

Stagg54 wrote: Is my eyesight that bad? I only count 5.

Yep. I also only spotted 5. If you zoom in you will see the hidden #6 to the left of the top ones.
Looks run-out. Might wanna add one more and make it a lucky 7.

Obviously this is to hang a port a ledge and rig a haul system. How many days would you say this ascent requires?

Kyle Cobbler wrote: hay seis ese

es verdad guey.

Seth Jones wrote: 6 bolts for rappelling?

Yep. Again, this is replicated nearby on other cliffs frequented by climbers. The number of bolts is obviously excessive, but often these are individuals who are not climbers--they are rappellers/cavers and therefore don't tend to follow climber "standards."

Given the mixed quality and age of many of these bolts, it seems that the standard practice by these groups is simply to place 3 or 4 bolts initially and then add successive bolts as the older ones age (without pulling/chopping the first placements). I wish I had a photo of some of the Whiteside spots, but alas. It's pretty incredible to see a group of them walk to the top of Whiteside with a spool of static line and toss 1,000 feet of rope over the edge.

My assumption is rescue group practice, cavers/rappellers or highliners. Climbers aren't the only user group placing bolts and we should understand and try to appreciate other user groups, IMO.

What would Shane use to tether into this monster.

Jason Halladay wrote:My assumption is rescue group practice, cavers/rappellers or highliners. Climbers aren't the only user group placing bolts and we should understand and try to appreciate other user groups, IMO.

amen

Jason Halladay wrote:My assumption is rescue group practice, cavers/rappellers or highliners. Climbers aren't the only user group placing bolts and we should understand and try to appreciate other user groups, IMO.

Definitely. We should also work with them on sustainable practices and minimizing their impact. If we could track down whomever installed these it could be a great opportunity to talk about sustainable anchor practices. When it comes down to it, the land manager probably isn't going to distinguish between "climber bolts" and "rappeller bolts" so it's in our best interests to try to get everyone on the same page.