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Swaseyland
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A walk on the Swasey Side T 
Broken Cross T 
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Peanut Butter Jar, The T 
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Where Grandmas fear to tread T 

Pleasant Surprise Tower 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Sept. 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 1, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The East Face of Pleasant Surprise Tower. The rou...

Description 

Climb a offwidth/chimney in a deep dihedral on the east face of the tower. Climb sustained 5.9 offwidth up into a short chimney. After the chimney follow the crack right and up(crux) to the summit. Belay in between the twin summits at a two bolt anchor.

Location 

Drive down the 4wd road past Swaseys Cabin. When you get two miles from the Swayseys Cabin parking area you can park in a small wash on your right. The tower is north of this parking area about 75 yards from the road.

Protection 

I brought 3 sets of cams to #3 camalot. 1 #3.5, 1 #4, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5. And a set of stoppers. I wish I had brought more bigger cams and ended up doing a lot of sliding gear with me. A good rack would be two sets of cams to #2 camalot. 3 #3's, 2 #3.5's, 2 #4's, 2 #4.5's, and two #5 camalots. The crack is pretty sustained and wide.


Photos of Pleasant Surprise Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Pleasant Surprise Tower is on the right as seen from the 4wd road two miles past the Swasey Cabin Parking Area.
BETA PHOTO: Pleasant Surprise Tower is on the right as seen fr...
Ben Folsom on the first ascent of Pleasant Surprise Tower, East Face.
Ben Folsom on the first ascent of Pleasant Surpris...

Comments on Pleasant Surprise Tower Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 1, 2007

Bastard... ehr, I mean, nice work Ben!
By Ben Folsom
Oct 1, 2007

This was a really good climb. We were searching for Eagle Rock when we ran across this. The crack looks chossy and loose from the ground, but for the most part it is totally solid on really good rock and very interesting climbing from Offwidth to chimneys to some good jamming up high. Anyway, we felt like finding this was a pleasant surprise, hence the name.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 1, 2007

Yeah, I walked around that thing looking, saw that line, it looked hard. I was trying to get to the formation on the left of Pleasant Surprise Tower, then realized it isn't actually a tower. Did you find Eagle Rock? About 100yrds past Pleasant Surprise you take a left and follow that road for 1/2 a mile.