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Bombardment is clearly the first choice of moderates on this far left end... However if you have done that route enough times you might be looking for something new... This route is a great change of pace... Similar in style and a little easier in grade.... Not a hard line to find, just look for the big arch to the left of bombardment with a layback/jam crack in its corner...
Pitch one: 5.6 R A bit of a spook show for a new leader... Start up the crack to the small ledge at the far left end of the Lower Left wall... Climb up and right getting a piece in a horizontal crack before heading in to the unprotected section... Traverse right on to the slab till you get to a thin (and helpful) dike... Many people have a hard time cause they dont go far enough right... Make sure you find the dike... If you stay relaxed the climbing is a breeze... Climb to the nice ledge and belay at cracks or the (dying) tree, careful... I like to continue and do it in one long pitch...
Pitch 2: 5.7 Climb the arch, laying back and jamming with all the nice placements you dreamt about on pitch one... Continue on the arch till you get to the easy dike on the left... Head up then traverse right to the tree atop Bombardment...
Same start as, then climbing the arch left of Bombardment 5.8...
Normal rack, the crux pitch eats up mid sized cams... pitch one doesnt eat much...
By Randy Peterson
2 days ago
Pitch 1 is what it is but pitch 2 is a fun route with great protection. The arch is sustained and enjoyable.
Above this route (where you would normally cut right to the top of bombardment) is a bolted line that I think goes at 5.9 (although it felt more like 5.10+). It was very dirty but the moves are fun. If we had brought some brushes it would have been worth cleaning!