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Middle Finger (backside)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear, The T,TR 
Cub, The T,TR 
Middle Corner T,TR 
Pick-A-Dilly Prow T,TR 
Pick-A-Dilly Prow Variation T,TR 
Pleasant Dreams T,TR 
Prick-a-Digi Ow! T,TR 

Pleasant Dreams 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Sean Cobourn
Page Views: 1,610
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Middle Finger Backside Ian Balman leads Pleasant ...

Description 

The overhanging start favors the tall. Need a boost, shorty? Yard up to the flake on good holds, then follow the flake casually upward to a small ledge with a bolt above it. (Trust me, it's there.) Continue upward to the top.

Location 

Roughly in the middle of the wall. Look for a right-facing flake system that leads up to a small horizontal ledge about 40 feet up.

Protection 

light rack, bolted anchors on top


Photos of Pleasant Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Backside   Ian Balman leads  Pleasan...
Middle Finger Backside Ian Balman leads Pleasan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8)mixed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Backside  Pleasant Dreams (5.8) mixe...
Middle Finger Backside Pleasant Dreams (5.8) mixe...
Rock Climbing Photo: beginning of route
beginning of route

Comments on Pleasant Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Feb 8, 2012

By Brandon H - SC
From: Jackson SC
Aug 27, 2012

This is in no way a hard route but it has some really fun moves! If you aren't overly tall there is a neat mantle move off the finger ledge 2/3rds up. If taking gumbies watch that they dont put their finger in the bolt at the crux... dont want any lost fingers

Cheers!

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