Playing Hookie 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Tom Hanson, Scott Sills, 1989. |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Ben near the crux of Playing Hookie
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This has another bouldery start to the 1st clip. Past the third bolt is the crux, a move to the left past a bulge. Then reach high to a horizontal break. A kneebar is possible below this bulge.
Protection Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO
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Dan Mottinger latches onto the final jugs.
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| Comments on Playing Hookie |
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By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 27, 2004
| Fun climb, but 10c, really? thought it was much easier than that.Are you supposed to go straight up over the bulge? I wen't around to the left on the juggy holds with lots of chalk. A much easier variation in my opinion. |
By Eric Dalmata
Mar 20, 2005
Gear Alert
| Hey, does anyone know what the route is two climbs to the left of Playing Hookie? It's listed as number 1 in the photo. We climbed it 3/19/05 and one of the bolt anchors at the top was missing a hanger. |
By Tom Hanson
Mar 21, 2005
| Hello Eric,
I forgot what we named the leftmost route in The Playground, but will check my notes to get the name.
So, the vandals have struck again eh? Can you recall what condition the threads of the bolt were in on the bolt that was missing a hanger? If the threads look good I will replace the hanger. If a new bolt is needed, it will require a special use permit from Colorado State Parks to replace. |
By Eric Dalmata
Mar 22, 2005
| Hey Tom, thanks for the quick response. I think the threads on that bolt are still in good condition. Our main concern was getting down, not inspecting the bolt, but my good friend Scott recalls the threads being okay. Have you had this problem a lot at Castlewood?
Anyway, we love the climbs you put up.........thank you!We are also curious of what you rated it........ we are assuming that the stem to the left is off?? |
By Tom Hanson
Mar 29, 2005
| Hi Eric,
I am glad to hear that the threads may be in good condition. I will try to remember to bring along an extra hanger, nut and wrench to repair the anchor the next time I am near the The Playground.
I have seen similar vandalism over the years at Castlewood at Morning Sun Wall, The Zoids and now The Playground. However, considering Castlewood's proximity to Denver and Colorado Springs and the large amount of non climbers who have access to the cliffs, it has been less of a problem than might be expected.
Thank you very much for the gear update! |
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 2, 2006
| Does anyone know what route number 2 in this photo is? I can't seem to locate it on here.... |
By Tom Hanson
Jan 3, 2006
| Route number two is called Black Slide. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 3, 2006
| Is it a recently put up line? I can't find it on here anywhere, just wondering what it was rated. Felt like a hard ten |
By Tom Hanson
Jan 6, 2006
| Hi AC,
Yes, hard 5.10 sounds right. Black Slide sports only a couple of bolts. There a couple of gear placements in addition to the bolts, but it is often lead on bolts alone.This route is in the Yellow Goide. |
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