|The East Quarry
This was done ground up. It was the first route done on the East Quarry. It got the name because I placed a bunch of "Lowe Balls" on this. Further inspection revealed places to put small cams and a good stem just before the crux. So it's not as bold as I thought, I just had tunnel vision.
It's the El Matador looking stembox. You can't miss it.
Lowe Balls and small cams some stoppers. Apparently you can skip the balls if you have a few small cams.
Stem where you can, and it'll save the guns. This...
|By Shawn Mitchell|
Jul 30, 2009
Established on Lowe Balls but "further inspection" revealed CAM PLACEMENTS?? Me thinks you stinted on gear and risked your neck for a smartass route name!
|By mike c|
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
A sweet route. Led ground up...a block detaching experience. If I remember correctly, the first lead entailed a leader fall (crazy John L) while holding onto a detaching boulder. I think the thing hit him in the head (a little more exciting than rapbolting). It was ok, though a red Alien saved the day. The hard part of the route is the transition from fingers to a flaring hand jam. Needs a little cleaning, but all the crack routes at the East Quarry do. The first route to be put up here. As far as I know, John L led it first, and I led it for the second time...no other attempts that I know of. Like many of the routes here, it looks short and easy, but all are adventures in their own right.