Play Misty 

I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux.

There is no pin at the crux now, just a blue alien placement in the old pin scar, but you can't see it and there is definitly a bad spot where the placement is not good, hence the PG13 because your gear coule be bad and you wouldn't have a clue.

Also the upper section is so lichen covered and unprotectable, a fall from up there would be disasterous.

Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.

It might have been considered at some point by the crew up in North Conway, althought since it hasn't so far and the route is so infrequently climbed I don't see that happening.
Personally I like that this climb is so commiting because of that placement, I like it without a pin and I won't be adding a pin there.

Sure this was one of James' favorite's but he did not do the ffa. Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman from the UK were pointed at the route by Ed Webster in 78.
agreed though ,much more committing w/o the pin

john

i got my ass handed to me on this today.... nothing epic other than my failure haha... but after reading the description i find my self more lost than ever.... i saw no hand crack for a #1 or #2, i was able to place 4 or 5 pieces small (cams and nuts) before bailing and cleaning down the climb... i was climbing the pods in the corner off the ledge am i supossed to be elsewhere where this description would make sense to me? also one of the well chalked pods i used was all crumbling and falling apart... bummer, i was looking forward to this route... any idea what gives ???

Lee, It must just be me. But i would not waste my time on this route, I have never thought it was any good.

haha thanks john, i had that feeling too... but now i just want to understand it...

Burlap and I got on this yestersday, classic route. We climbed the crux as a technical crack route, didn't see any blind placements or trickery. I laced up the bottom and fell on a bunch on the gear so it all seemed pretty good. The exit was tough, then another 50+ feet of tricky 9+/10- climbing. Needs a redpoint from me!

this discription needs a rehab. No pin is fixed and there doesnt need to be a new one, gear is excellent albiet small and akward to place. The 5.10 crack nearing the top after the crux has no lichen on it and is very clean and well protected, I used nothing larger than a .75 and was very well protected the entire time. Excellent route, varied climbing with a "pumped out of your mind from the crux" tricky, crescendo finish.

got shut down on my first attempt last year... today it went...

good climbing... protecting was strenuous (there is currently a stuck nut on it though)... the top section was a little dirty but wasnt a big problem...

The description for this route is somewhat misleading. Play Misty is a finger crack and thus protects mostly with smaller gear. The crack widens after the crux and will accept some wider gear (#1 or so) and the upper crack will also accept up to a .75.

The only portion of the climb that is a little spicey is the top of the second tier where the crack becomes flared, otherwise IF you can hang on to place the gear, the protection is quite good. Also, Play Misty is stiff for the grade. It makes nearby Airation feel like nursery school climbing.

i agree chris, on pretty much all of your points... i climbed The prow to get the confidence for this one haha...
And i dont know what ladd meant by placing your gear from the ground? if i could do that id do it on all the routes i climb haha... i found the crux moves and crux gear placement to be 10+ feet off that 1st ledge...