||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book)|
|Season: ||spring through fall (north facing)|
|Page Views: ||655|
|Submitted By: ||slim on Jul 21, 2010 with updates
from rob bauer and 1 more|
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BETA PHOTO: All 6 bolts can be seen here, then don't slip for ...
Platte Magic is yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.
This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 6th bolted route from the left and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus
Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. It is kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.
I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.
Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the [6th] bolted route from the left, and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus
6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts were well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still this was not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).
Per rob bauer
: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).
Rob at the 1st bolt, 25ft.
BETA PHOTO: A rope on the route as seen from the start.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jun 18, 2014
All the bolts have been replaced. Thank you, ASCA!
Feb 21, 2016
This route is currently the 6th bolted route from the left. When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 13, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
This is a difficult slab climb and is certainly no "sport" route. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart and the first bolt is high. A fun, tough climb.