Platte Magic  5.10b PG13

288 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book) Season:  spring through fall (north facing) Submitted By:  slim on Jul 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.

This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 5th bolted route from the left, and the 6th route from the left if you include the 'Burley Dudes' toprope.

Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. Kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.

I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.

Location 

Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 5th bolted route from the left, and the 6th route from the left if you include the 'Burley Dudes' toprope.

Protection 

6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts are well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).