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Platinum Blonde 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Egbert, Scott Unice
Page Views: 4,220
Submitted By: John Bradford on Sep 17, 2005
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Platinum Blonde .9+/.10a
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located just right of Rockapella. Start and belay up on the higher ledges. This is a great route, sustained pulling on steep to slightly overhanging rock. Lots of good features. The start is a bit run out but very easy. make sure your belayer is attentive or there is a knot in the end of the rope if you are using anything less than a 60 meter rope. On the day I was there, someone was dropped 20 feet while being lowered. The rope went right through the belay device. It is difficult to hear from the top due to distance and typically windy conditions.


Protection 

8 bolts to a two bolt/chain anchor



Photos of Platinum Blonde Slideshow Add Photo
Me on the Blond
Me on the Blond
Making my way up Platinum Blonde 08-01-2007.
Making my way up Platinum Blonde 08-01-2007.
Tim McCallister
Tim McCallister
Platinum Blond 2013 Photo
BETA PHOTO: Platinum Blond 2013 Photo
Comments on Platinum Blonde Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2013
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Sep 24, 2006

This is a super fun route with great exposure and even better views. The book mentions that it is possible to do this route with a 50m rope by belaying from a ledge a little ways up, but this would be pretty uncomfortable and would require a downclimb. A 60m rope is perfect.

By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I saw my wife climb this route the day we met. I knew she was the one. That's important beta because maybe it could happen to you :)

By Michael MacFadden
Jun 15, 2008

This is a pretty fun climb. It kind of zig-zags up the face a bit so look around to see where the next bolts are. The last bolt is probably the most fun section.

By Alec
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Deceptively steep -- even a bit overhanging in places. Great pockets all the way, just keep cranking to the top!

By Chauncemaster
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun face climb on good holds. The 5.10a difficulty comes from being sustained and a bit overhung in some spots. Eats up an entire 60m rope.

By Caleb Bryce
Sep 7, 2009

note the length of this one...I led it with a 70m rope and my belayer had just enough rope to lower me back to the ledge...even with the rope stretch...

KNOT THE ENDS OF THE ROPE if you're using anything less than 70m, and certainly for under 60m

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 8, 2009

If your "70m" barely had anything left lowering off from this route, then your rope is not 70 meters long.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Does anyone have contact info for the FA party?

By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2011

Fun route with plenty of feet to use this as a warm up. I used a 60m rope, and it was plenty. Just make sure the belayer stands on the higher ledge and ties a knot in the end.

By ScowHound
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

60 year old - been climbing about 5 years. Great, fun route --- juggy and positive holds, edges all the way up. Run-out to first bolt is very easy climbing.

By Jordon Schaefer
Sep 3, 2011

Great climb! A 60 meter rope is perfect for this climb. Great views and holds. The first bolt is a little run out but very easy climbing minimizes risk. I would say the crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Fairly easy climbing from there to the double chain anchors. Highly recommend, have fun!

By Pixtonian
From: Salt lake city, Utah
Aug 7, 2013

Great route, I lead this last week after being out for a bit and not climbing. It was a challenge but one of the better routes I have climbed. Loved some of the top moves.

By optikal
From: SLC, UT
Oct 26, 2013

Had a great time! Jugs and pockets the whole way, sustained and a little overhung in spots; quite the pump on my first go! 60m rope was perfect for rappelling and TR, I extended the anchor for TR to avoid a bit of rope drag.