Just up to the right of the route Paradise Lost, or to the left of Continental Drift, there is another dihedral. In the dihedral, there is a massive crack, ascending up and to the right though an overhang. The majority of the crack is hand-to-fist sized and takes great cams. Start up some non-descript rock to reach this obvious hand-to-fist crack, then up the overhanging open-book/crack, stating with underclings and switching to jams as it becomes less steep. Just after the crack goes vertical, climb the face to the left as an overhanging prow (5.10) or squeeze into the slot on the right and finish past 'the plate' (now removed). Belay from good gear above.
This route was named after a the crag and a shifting plate of rock up high... a death-flake about 6" thick, but 3' X 4' wide at the top.This was lurking in wait for the first clumsy or ignorant ascent. It is VERY tempting to grab it, as it was at the crux. It was not cleaned by the FA party due to the position of our packs, below.
It was, however trundled out by a subsequent party.
One set of 1-4" cams.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2007
Removed the flake today. Another Top Ten Trundle.