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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Plastic Jesus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Roger & Bill Briggs 1985
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 5, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is actually a variation to the 3rd pitch of Rosy Crucifixion. Climb up about 20 feet on P3 of Rosy, place a good piece of gear, then traverse left on friable rock to a small R-facing corner, and continue with the L-diagonal crack system, almost joining Wild Kingdom near the top. The climbing is steep and interesting, with an inobvious crux move and a bit of a runout above (on easier climbing). Adds a good 50 feet of seldom-traveled rock to Rosy...with the Le Toit to Rosy connection (see comments in Le Toit section) and this as a finish, you can pack a lot of climbing into 2 or 3 pitches.


    Protection 

    Have a good selection of TCUs included with a standard Eldo rack.



    Comments on Plastic Jesus Add Comment
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    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 25, 2001

    Mike Schlauch reminded me of some crux beta you may wish to know...from the last gear (a green Alien) at the end of the flake it is unclear which way to go, and some of us are drawn up and right into no-mans land. Better to move left with good feet but poor hand holds, then step back right a bit higher.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 2, 2002

    Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL

    By Brad Bond
    Mar 16, 2003

    I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece.

    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Mar 17, 2003

    I was climbing Rosy one time while some folks were above us on this route...the leader pulled off a decent sized flake, but somehow managed to keep from dropping it (or falling). Since we were below him as well as people on the lower ramp, he put the thing down his pants and led the rest of the pitch that way!

    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 6, 2003

    This is a sustained and interesting climb in a great position. The gear is bomber though the hard moves are a bit above your last piece. It seems that this is the logical finish to Rosy instead of simply a varation.

    By david goldstein
    Aug 25, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    Steep, exposed face climbing with pretty good rock.

    The pro is good except for the 5.9ish traverse left after the crux. A grey (smallest) TCU can provide top rope pro for the crux. A gold Camalot fits perfectly into a hole in an othewise hard to protect area near the end of the pitch.

    In my book, a solid Eldo 3 star outing when done in conjunction with Le Toit and Rosy Le Toit.

    My partner and I felt that 11C was a pretty soft Eldo rating for this pitch, especially when compared to the "10d" first pitch of Le Toit.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Mar 15, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

    I didn't read any of this before I did this climb and finished right on the bigger holds because I was pumped. I tend to have insecure footwork and stong arms, so I pull a lot harder than average on holds that I can wrap up (at least if the number of holds I spin or break at a gym is any indicator).
    I reached the final flake and it creaked and groaned, urging me to back off a little. So yes, I think you can finish on it (I did) but think someday someone big is going to pull hard and it will come off.
    It is large enough that should it turn loose it will mame or kill someone below if it hits them. Luckily, the odds of such would seem extremely low.

    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    May 14, 2006
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13

    The key piece of gear on the pitch is a blue Alien or 0.2 Camalot. I would suggest 3-4 cams in this size and doubles up to a 0.75 Camalot.

    It is possible to traverse to Wild Kingdom's last bolt, if you can't figure out the finishing moves on PJ.