|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Lechlinski, Gingery, et al... 1978?|
|Season: ||Late spring until early fall|
|Page Views: ||1,375|
|Submitted By: ||Levy on Jun 14, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Tony on the stemming corner of Planet Waves, 5.11c...
Lieback, stem & face climb up the attractive left facing, left arching corner. Where the arch gets thin & disappears, step left to a bolted belay. The infrequently done 2nd pitch, ascends past 1 bolt(5.10+) to a huge runout to easier climbing, to join the S Crack or South Face route which can be followed to the top.
On the east face of the Warlock, out along the ledge left 60 feet from Imaginary Voyage.
Lots of small wireds, tech cams & such to 2 1/2 inches. The bolts on this belay should be modernized, currently it is 2 x 1/4" bolts from the 1970's
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 14, 2011
The anchor bolts at the top of P1 and the protection bolts on P2 are now upgraded to stainless 5 piece powers. The lead bolts are 3/8" x 3" and the anchor is one 3/8" and one 1/2". Have fun!!
Also Shadows in the Rain, the face climb to the right of Imaginary Voyage has new bolts.
Special thanks to Levy, without whose hard work this would not have happenned. And to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for the materials.