Planet Waves 5.11c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Lechlinski, Gingery, et al... 1978? |
| Season: | Late spring until early fall |
| Submitted By: | Levy on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Tony on the stemming corner of Planet Waves, 5.11c...
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Description Lieback, stem & face climb up the attractive left facing, left arching corner. Where the arch gets thin & disappears, step left to a bolted belay. The infrequently done 2nd pitch, ascends past 1 bolt(5.10+) to a huge runout to easier climbing, to join the S Crack or South Face route which can be followed to the top.
Location On the east face of the Warlock, out along the ledge left 60 feet from Imaginary Voyage.
Protection Lots of small wireds, tech cams & such to 2 1/2 inches. The bolts on this belay should be modernized, currently it is 2 x 1/4" bolts from the 1970's
Planet Waves, 5.11 A masterpiece of stemming & ...
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Planet Waves, 5.11 A masterpiece of stemming & ...
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BETA PHOTO: Planet Waves goes up the left facing corner and Im...
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By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 14, 2011
| The anchor bolts at the top of P1 and the protection bolts on P2 are now upgraded to stainless 5 piece powers. The lead bolts are 3/8" x 3" and the anchor is one 3/8" and one 1/2". Have fun!!
Also Shadows in the Rain, the face climb to the right of Imaginary Voyage has new bolts.
Special thanks to Levy, without whose hard work this would not have happenned. And to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for the materials. |
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