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> Planet of the Apes Wall
Planet of the Apes
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 147 votes
Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 12,960 total · 68/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008 |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park.
Details
Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open
Details
All routes currently OPEN
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Description
The classic line on the wall. Good, consistent climbing throughout on pockets and jugs. Climbs up an obvious line in the center of the wall leading to a crack, then ventures out left about halfway up on big jugs. The grades on this wall seem to be much less inflated than the rest of the park.
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