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Planet Gnarler 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: head crew, 1998(?)
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2002
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Description 

This is fun and burly with powerful roof moves. It is just right of Poser Free Zone. It has good stone.

Don't get off route, or you'll be doing Gnarler Free Zone... or Planet Poser....


Protection 

13 bolts.



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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Continuous climbing on the upper section.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I couldn't find decent beta at 12b going directly through the upper roof. I went to the right, used a small undercling to then gain the obvious horn above the roof. When I pulled over with the horn, I was right of the bolt at my knee level? This was def. off-route, but this seemed the logical weakness? I agree the upper half is good-thin and continuous, the bottom crux is also fun.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I think there's a heel hook that takes you straight through the roof and a sort of scrunched up move after that. Perhaps there are a couple of different ways to do this one. I thought the face climbing above the roof was good.