|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 2500', Grade V|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Gordon Wiltsie and Jay Jensen, September 1977|
|Page Views: ||1,393|
|Submitted By: ||Bruce Bindner on May 4, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Planaria on Temple Crag
In 1997, Gordon Wiltsie and Jay Jensen established Planaria, using aid to ascend a shallow, right-facing dihedral up to a right-trending roof, thence up into the large shallow dihedral that comprises the bulk of the route.
Higher, after a 60-foot fall out of the left side, Gorden and Jay went up the right side of the flatworm flake that gives the route its name.
The pair ended their fine ascent at the top of the Lower Buttress where the route joins with Dark Star and Barefoot Bynum.
Partly because of the route's reputation, and partly because freeing the first two pitches looked unlikely at best, Planaria went unrepeated for over 20 years.
The free variation established by Bob Harrington and Bruce Bindner in 1998 starts up a 5.9 crack to the right of the aid route, then works up the face past a pin and two bolts to rejoin the Wiltsie-Jensen line out to the right of the end of the right-trending aid roof.
During the all-free ascent, the left side of the flatworm flake was climbed free in the 5.10 range, the crux being 4.5" to 5.5" offwidth.
Harrington and Bindner then continued to the summit of Temple Crag, rating the entire route to the summit a Grade V.
From Third Lake, cross the outlet stream over fallen logs at the east end of Third Lake, and follow a use trail up onto the moraine. This peters out after about 100 yards, and the rest of the way is on talus and scree. Head more or less directly south, then aim for the face below the shallow dihedral that comprises this route, which is located to the right of Barefoot Bynum and Dark Star.
2 KBs, 2 LAs
Stoppers and some brass
Pink, red, and brown tricams
cams from blue Alien to #4.5 Camelot
Alien Hybrids also useful.
A 55m - 60m rope is useful on some of the longer pitches. See topo.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Temple Crag, showing the location of the ...