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 ADVANCED
Ragged Edges Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aikido Gun Boy T 
Bodiddly T 
Chicken Eruptus T 
Crooked Crack T 
Dense Dunce T 
Diplomatic Immunity T 
Dumptruck T 
Footloose T 
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 
Go Ahead and Jump T 
Go Ahead, Ok? T 
Kemosabe T 
Lethal Weapon T 
Midheight T 
Midnight T 
Nightman Cometh, The T 
Ok Ok Ok T 
Plan F T 
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 
Ragged Edges T 
Revoked T 
Sheep Trail T 
Theme Book T 
Tonto T 
Unsorted Routes:

Plan F - first pitch (5.9) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Harrison, et al.
Season: All
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Sep 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: Plan F pitch 1.

Description 

To the left of Ragged Edges is this tasty lookin' crack system that ends at the two-bolt anchor of Ragged Edges. This is where the route ends... and is 5.9. Good pro all the way on excellent holds. Hardly any crack climbing until... well, you'll figure it out.

The continuation of the original route after the 5.9 crux (without clipping the bolts on Ragged Edge's anchor) moves left through two bolts and some spicy 5.11 climbing.

Tick this here route if ya only do the 5.9.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Comments on Plan F - first pitch (5.9) Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Having done this variation dozens of times over the years, I dont think I could bring myself to call this 5.9. Its 5.10a, imho- especially in Red Rock.
By kennoyce
From: Layton, UT
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed, I've climbed it a couple of times and it is certainly 5.10a.
By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely a .10! Great gear all the way. Got up onto the ledges just left of the anchor for ragged edges and thought I was home free. ERRONEOUS! Dripped sweat all over working up the courage to step right across the greasy, sweat-stained slab to the anchor. Protection can be placed at your feet - .3 camalot.
By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

echo the other comments. harder than other 10a's i did in RR (DOWT, etc.) and way harder than the 9's (Sensuous Mortician, Magellenic Cloud, Above and Beyond, etc) its 5.9 until its time to go right. i fished a small nut in a slot at ankle height once i stopped whining. i feel i was maybe a little too far left onto the regular climb and you could come straight up into that little slot which would reduce the traverse. really fun climbing!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 9, 2014

5.9+ and not easier than DoWT. There is some beta at the crux that makes this feel easier. Going left to a "jug" left of the crack instead of going right is helpful. This may seem counterintuitive and somewhat "spicy" but that's what has worked for me and I've done this half a dozen times. Tick it at 10a if you want but I think Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe are more 10a than this.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I respectfully disagree with Andy's grade assessment on this first pitch. Difficulty feels closer to a Gin Ricky or Wholesome Fullback than Nadia's Nine or any of the .10a I have climbed on the Velvet Wall...but hey, what's in a grade? ;-)