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Mt. Moroni
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Plan B 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 2,154
Submitted By: eDixon on Apr 20, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Plan B follows the obvious corner through the two ...

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Description 

Plan B ascends a right-facing corner system through three distinct roofs. The rock is generally good quality and the climbing is quite enjoyable. A challenging route with some incredible positions. The route now goes free, but was originally done at 5.11 C2.

P1 (5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.

P2 (5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.

P3 (5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.

P4 (5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.

P5 (5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.

P6 (5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.

P7 (5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.

P8 (5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.

Protection 


  • (1) set of stoppers
  • (1) set of TCUs
  • (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #4
  • Extra #1's
  • (1) #5 Camalot

Location 

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10 minutes, start looking for a faint climber's path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall. Plan B will be to the left once the wall is reached.

Descent 

From the top, downclimb 30 feet to the bolted anchor. From these bolts, rap the route.


Photos of Plan B Slideshow Add Photo
The two large roofs on Plan B.
BETA PHOTO: The two large roofs on Plan B.
Climbing the third pitch of Plan B.
Climbing the third pitch of Plan B.
The start of Plan B.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Plan B.
Climbing the great thin-hands of the second pitch of Plan B.
Climbing the great thin-hands of the second pitch ...
A view of Plan B from the road.
BETA PHOTO: A view of Plan B from the road.
old topos
BETA PHOTO: old topos

Comments on Plan B Add Comment
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By Keith Beckley
Oct 21, 2011

Its hard to believe that this route is more popular. Id say that the true first pitch is more like 11+. off fingers climbing. right off the belay.The roof pitch is quite hard. Red camalots out a roof...tougher for big hands.. the 2ns to last pitch is great but not 12-...have fun