|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague|
|Season:||Spring and Fall|
|Submitted By:||eDixon on Apr 20, 2007|
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Plan B||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Keith Beckley
Oct 21, 2011
|Its hard to believe that this route is more popular. Id say that the true first pitch is more like 11+. off fingers climbing. right off the belay.The roof pitch is quite hard. Red camalots out a roof...tougher for big hands.. the 2ns to last pitch is great but not 12-...have fun|
By Travis McClinchey
From: Squamish, BC
Nov 4, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
It is not obvious where to turn off the main trail if approaching from Zion lodge. Using intuition and the path of least resistance will see you to the base.
There is no need for BD #4's. The second last pitch eats BD #3's. We had two for this pitch, but you could easily place three or four if this size is hard for you.
One BD #5 is useful for pitch two. After this pitch, stash it and retrieve it after rappel.
No nuts nor small gear needed. I'd bring BD #0.4 and up. Four or five BD #1's are useful for the crux pitch.
The anchors for the end of the climb and before the crux roof could use some love (I.e. Slings). We made an anchor for the top from the lonely bolts, but it was a quick fix and could be improved with tat.
You can rappel with a 70m rope but the second last rappel is more like 40 metres. The down climbing is fairly easy, but be careful.
The topo shows the route continuing up an extra 10 metres or so from the final bolted anchor. The climbing is mediocre at this point and you need to build an anchor. If you do this, you can scramble down around to the climbers left and return to the bolted anchor.