Mountain Project: Climbing Boulder Canyon

Boy, oh boy, what a chance to spray about a great line! I am surprised that this route was not described here previously. First, the Upper Security Risk Crag is a great crag. And second, Ken Trout has put up some of the finest climbs anywhere. With Mark and Henry completing the picture, Plan B was guaranteed to be a classic, and it is all of that. On a cliff with nothing but great lines, this a really great line. Plan B starts just to the right of a grungy little off-width on a short pillar. It takes the face straight up crossing a pegmatite dike and climbs largely on good edges and side pulls. The route reminded me of Ten Digit Dialing in Clear Creek, only longer and with no move harder than 5.12b. The cruxes start coming right away, first at bolts 2 and 3 and shortly later at bolts 4 and 5. The whole route is relentless with nearly every non-crux move at 5.11. Good, not too tricky climbing after the second crux at 40 ft takes you to a small overlap just before the first anchor. Pulling a 5.11 overlap and a couple more clips to the upper anchor just prolongs the fun. Plan B gets three stars for the super rock, the complex climbing, the continuity, and the superb job putting it all together.

Protection

QDs only. 13-14 draws will get you to the top. Actually, this route has two anchors, one at 75 feet and one at 90-95 feet. Double ropes for the higher anchor or a single for the first.

Comments on Plan B

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By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

4 stars on a 3 star scale

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2003

The climbing is fun and the hand holds are good, but the feet are rather slippery. I dont reccomend trying this route in warm weather even if its in the shade...

But a great route worth the hike!

By Joe Collins
Sep 19, 2003
rating: 5.12b

Best mid-5.12 and under sport climb in the Canyon? Two 5.12 cruxes with a good shaking hold between them. Lots of other mid to hard-5.11 cruxes.

By Chris Archer
Oct 28, 2003
rating: 5.12b

Sport climbing in Boulder Canyon doesn't get much better than this route and Hot Flyer.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b

This is my vote for the best route of its grade in Boulder Canyon. The long, steep hike up to it is the warm-up.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 7, 2008

This is a superlative route. I have made it my goal to redpoint this route; if I do, I shall be able to retire from climbing and life. The route is very aesthetic, on a nice granite face with the starkly-delineated pink dike running throughout, yielding many crystalline holds.
The extension brings the pitch closer to a full 30m, but contains much easier climbing and is still fairly dirty. It can be skipped.
The route begins to receive sun shortly before noon.
After working through the 5th-bolt sequency crux many times, I can provide some beta: clip 5. Do not go right to the dike; on this path lies only despair. Put left hand on L-facing arete; bring R foot down to ramp directly underneath you. Lieback to R; get L foot high and left to very small edge. Crank up on arete and L foot to get 2-finger undercling flake with L hand. Move R foot higher up ramp. Get R hand high to diagonal crimper. R foot higher. Match L hand to crimper. In a balancy move, reach R to sloper under 6th bolt. Switch feet, clip 6 with L.

By Mark Wiranowski
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.12b

Fantastic climb - best I've been on in Boulder Canyon. Great cold weather climb - gets the sun around 11 am until sunset. Nice suntrap in the corner. 1st clip is reachy if short - consider a stick clip. Can skip the 3rd bolt.

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b

This feels like the Front Range 12b benchmark... absolutely stunning route... stoked to check out the two other highly rated 12s @ this wall.

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	ADVANCED

Plan B

5.12b

Description

Protection