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This climb starts with the crux: A roof at about 10'. Use the hand crack and mantle up. Clip a bolt and work around a second smaller roof about 40' up. Now climb through the middle of the face, passing two more bolts (5.6R). The last third of the route is the easiest, but protection is sparse and a fall would be unpleasant.
To the right of the easily found crack The Wet Kiss.
Cams from 2.5" to 0.4", getting smaller as you get higher.
A 3 bolt anchor (which doesn't technically belong to this route but is close enough).
By Marcus McCoy
Apr 3, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Great climb, but I felt this climb deserved the R rating. Yeah, it's runout where the climbing is easier, but so is anything in Tuolumne, but yet they get the R rating ...
I did find some supplementary very small gear higher on the route which made the runout a little more reasonable, but still. Just my 2c.