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 ADVANCED
Daff Dome, Main Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearded Clam T 
Blown Away T 
Bombs over Tokyo (1st pitch) T 
Chvchichaschtli S 
Cooke Book T 
Crescent Arch T 
El Condor T 
Grey Ghost T 
Plagiarism T 
R.C.A. T 
R.C.A. (1st pitch) T 
West Crack T 
West of the Witch S 
Witch of the West S 
Unsorted Routes:

Plagiarism 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Grant Hiskes, Errett Allen 1987
Season: Gets afternoon sun
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Plagiarism - West Face Daff Dome

Description 

Surrounded by classics, this route sees few ascents. Of similiar quality, but more serious and sustained than Fingertips around the corner, some may feel it lacks an aesthetic line of ascent but it would be a classic at lesser climbing áreas.

P1: Climb easy slab up and over a long roof left of the start of El Condor, following a prominent wáter streak to the El Condor pitch 1 belay ledge. (5.7 ~100 feet)

P2: Make an easy traverse left to a low bolt below another long roof. Slab up and right to the roof 5.8 with finger size crack in it. Undercling left to the ápex and start face climbing up big knobs up and left to the second bolt, about 25' above the roof in a gold patch (5.8 R/X). Continue up with sustained moderately run-out 5.9+ climbing drifting slighly left then back right on edges and small knobs past 4 more hard to see bolts, the last bolt is just before the belay at the horizontal where polished rock forces a traverse up and right. Gear belay 1/2"-2" cams. (5.10a ~130 feet)

P3: Make a 5.8 move to face climb a short ways up a light colored patch of rock that forms the right side of a shallow depression. Make an improbable traverse right to easier slab climbing and then head for a low angle dihedral with large stacked blocks. No protection on this pitch. (5.8R ~60 feet).

4th class to the top about 100 feet.

Tick it off your list.

Location 

West face of Daff Dome on the far right (south) end, just left of El Condor.

Protection 

This route has a dangerous 5.8 run-out to the second bolt and a little run-out 5.9 just before the third bolt. Pitch 3 has no pro and tricky route finding before reaching easy climbing. The seven protection bolts are good, but not modern and they are really hard to see from below. Bring four or five cams in finger to 2" size for the P2 roof and belays plus draws and slings.


Photos of Plagiarism Slideshow Add Photo
Plagiarism Topo - West Face Daff Dome
BETA PHOTO: Plagiarism Topo - West Face Daff Dome

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