Placing wires...
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Hey everyone! |
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I rack wires across 3 carabiners and divide them up in groups of small, medium and large. Other people like to carry a mix of different sizes on each carabiner in case they drop a set - they'll still have some assortment of sizes. My advice is don't drop them. And, if you do, don't admit it on the interwebs ;) |
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One thing you can do is to split the nuts into 2 sets (smaller vs larger) and carry them on 2 separate oval biners. This can make the guessing a little bit quicker... But yes, it basically comes down to recognizing the right nut size based on a quick visual inspection of the rock. You will notice that you get MUCH faster over time. |
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I usually use two ovals, one for large nuts and one for small, with a little bit of overlap among the sizes in case I guess wrong. So, for example, I have a #7 nut on each biner. |
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I split wires into two sets, large and small. I remove the whole set when placing. I have definitely dropped them but its just an occupational hazard. You do start to figure out the size better as you place more and more gear. |
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I also think it's a good idea to use a keylock biner for racking wires. |
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ovals suck. just get something big enough and hookless so they don't snag when you are trying to get them off the racking biner. |
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Eric G. wrote:I also think it's a good idea to use a keylock biner for racking wires.For some reason I really like wire ovals specifically because it makes it harder for me to drop nuts. I'd rather take the extra 1/2 second to get the nut off the biner than open the gate at the wrong time and watch 4-5 nuts slip off and take a tumble. Maybe that's just me, but it seems to have worked so far! |
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I would take Andy Kirkpatrick's advice... |
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So it would seem the general advice for me would be to just keep practicing and ill get better at grabbin the right one right off the bat. Definitely going to try three different carabiners for organization since 2 (what i was doing) still seemed like a jumble. Thanks everyone! |
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Everybody else here told it the way it is. One tip more though...find a couple of "OLD" noseless ovals. They allow you to spin the set quickly w/o hanging up on the nose. Can save a few sec.s |
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I use camp nanos. They have never caused problems for me or anyone else using my rack but I honestly don't think it makes a difference. If you want to get gear in you will get it in no matter what type of biner it's on. |
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Madrock makes an I-beam Keylock Oval as well. Excellent for racking purposes, and light(ish) too. |
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And don't use wiregates |
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I keep all standard nuts on one biner (old style BD oval) and offsets on another (DMM Alloy offsets and Peenuts). |
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I usually carry 1 and a half sets of nuts on 2 biners. One biner has sizes 3-8 and the other biner has sizes 6-12. That way I have them organized by large and small on 2 biners and with some overlap so if I'm a little off, I can probably find something that works. With this system I do carry a couple of extra nuts, but sometimes I end up placing both of the same size so it's not so bad. |
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on moderates anything works .... |
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Don't drop stuff. |
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You stick them in cracks. |
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Brad M wrote:And don't use wiregatesI agree with Bill C. on this, I'll trade that that extra half second for peace of mind. Having my nuts spread all over the base of a climb just isn't something i want to deal with. |
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aye ya yae... what else can be said? |