Hardest route on this face; very balancy and thin on the upper sections (crux).
Start in middle of bottom tier in front of tree; follow middle tier straight up, follow top tier between the two thin, vertical seams at top. Easy walkoff.
There is not adequate protection to safely lead this route. Gear anchor at the top. Can use directional from the bolted anchor, but it needs its own anchor in truth.
Memories of my first days climbing
|By Zach S|
From: New York City
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This looks like night owl, PJ Party I think (from the guidebook) ends farther to the right, and it has a solid bolted anchor at the top.
From: South Salem, NY
May 10, 2012
You may be right, Zach, but remember that the images in the current guidebook leave much to be desired.
PJ Party goes up the last face between two thin, discontinuous vertical cracks and avoids the left-facing corner that is used for Sleepwalking. It's also too far to the right to be Night Owl - which shares the bolts with Bunk Arete.
The new bolts at the top of the cliff are set up over Sleepwalking (the 5.4). There's a thin, long crack to climber's left of the new bolts; that's where PJ Party comes up.
|By Avery Maracek|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 13, 2012
There are some cool moves if you start at the slanted vertical crack just to the left of where PJ Party starts. Still 5.7ish
From: Rosendale, NY
May 28, 2013
led it today thinking the g rating in the guide book was accurate haha. it felt easier than 5.6 that is stated in the guidebook though.