||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 150'
|Consensus: ||WI3-4 M1 [details]|
|FA: ||Bradley White 1/2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||173|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Jan 25, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: Belay is at the block crack before the ice curtain...
Start up Blue Amber or the right pillar. Go direct up to debris log area (from a very violent occurrence). Climb over giant log to ice runnel on slab. Start on low angle but very thin ice. Climb thicker steeper ice to dirt slope. Climb slope direct to rock wall and traverse right to small overlap. Surmount overlap up and right to belay ledge. Climb the crescendo curtain direct (I believe it varies in difficulty during the winter). In thin conditions I moved left to the small tree after and during the crux to catch my breath (why not). The finish direct I didn't do. It was mushroomed at the top. From my helpful companion the tree I went up and left passed giant pine tree on ice, also avoids getting backpack hooked on one low dead branch. The climb's finish has pizzazz. No rope solo.
Hike Orange Crush trail until there is the easy short walk over to the Blue Amber wall.
Medium to large stoppers or cams for the belay. Several screws and most shorter ones.
Insane ice, a giant mushroom.
Looking down from belay ledge.