This is the attractive splitter crack on the prow left of Pegleg / Ankles Away. It starts in a chimney with stemming, commit to a couple face moves with good protection to land at the base of the main crack. The crack starts as a lower angled seam with poor protection then turns to excellent fingers and hands. Belay on a pillar (2-2.5" cams) or continue left back to the chimney and belay from there.
Located on the left side of the West Face of the Witch, left of Pegleg and Ankles Away. Scramble up to the chimney and a little way back in to start. Descend the standard Witch walk off north.
Small aliens protect the crux very well, some tiny stoppers (RP's) until the crack gets fat then cams to 2".
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 8, 2008
The Moser, Vernon, Paul guidebook reads, "Poor protection for the move leaving the chimney to get to the crack."
Aug 8, 2009
The guidebook is once again wrong, John has good beta in his description.
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jul 23, 2014
Double ropes allow the leader to place good gear on the back side of the chimney giving excellent protection for the move from the chimney onto the face into the crack.
I think this is a great short climb, but not for everyone.