|Hawk's Bill Spire
Find your way to the southwest corner of the spire and rap off the west side. Do not rap off the south anchors (Children of the Revolution) or you will be jugging back up to rap the west side. This will be a double rappel to the ground. Go down the gully a little ways (but not to the base) until it is possible to start up the 5.8R slab.
A really good and fun trad 5.10 adventure climb with great exposure overlooking the canyon below. Start in the gully on the lower left side of the spire uphill a little ways from the bottom. Climb the unprotected 5.8 slab ~20 Ft or so where you get some pro and then on up to a horizontal break. I am told you can skip the run out slab by traversing in from the left at this point. Continue up to a roof that at first appearance looks more difficult than it is. Turn the roof at the left side to the first belay. It is possible to protect your second under the roof so they don't slam the left wall if they fall near the beginning of the roof. Head up a little and if you follow the left line I am told it is ~5.9 and if you choose up and slightly right it is 5.10 or so. Continue up to a large horizontal overlap and traverse left to the second belay. The traverse can be easy or a little awkward depending on the path you choose. At this belay straight above you is Children of the Revolution. Leave the belay and go a little left and up to an old rusty pin (it was loose 8 years ago) and run up the good but short face with no pro (all air if you fall and the pin pops) to some blocky underclings (good pro) and traverse a little right and up to the finish.
Gear, Chain Anchors
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 26, 2010
got on this route with eric ruljancich today and had to contend with cold, high winds. that said, it was still a really fun route. great exposure and some tricky gear along the way.
to get in some extra climbing for our first pitch, we started on the 5.8R pitch below pitfalls belayed on gear 10' beneath the roof. from there, we pulled the roof and climbed to the bolted anchor at the end of pitch 2. we stayed on the far left (5.9 variation), traversed right under an overlap (protected by a #1 ballnut), and then headed back left to the anchor. the gear on the latter half of this pitch became very sketchy.
the final pitch to the top was fun despite the very cold and windy conditions. we found good gear before the pin and a killer stopper halfway between the pin and the blocky overhang, so i feel the protection is reasonable. As soon as you pull the overhang the climbing is much easier to the top.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 16, 2011
In my opinion, one of the best on the mountain. We hiked in to the base and decided to do the 5.8R start also. We belayed below the roof on gear, then did the short pitch up to the chains past the roof. Up the next pitch we trended right, maybe making it a little harder but seemed like a better line. Right slanting handcrack at the top of the pitch was awesome! After traversing back left to the anchors, we hopped on the last pitch (very airy!). Watch out for some crumbly stuff both on the first and last pitch.
Potentially the best line I've done on the mountain, for sure. I've done harder stuff and longer stuff, but this has certainly the best position combined with provocative climbing for the grade and super exposure. My personal favorite climb I have ever done on all of Lemmon, even considering I followed the whole thing. Really want to do Children of the Revolution as the finish one day!
|By Clay Mansfield|
Nov 26, 2013
Pretty wild line. We broke up the pitches like Alex mentions above.
I'm not sure the 5.8R section is runout. There are some loose blocks but you can dance around them, and there's decent pro to be had the whole way. The right-hand variation on the 2nd pitch is well-protected, but stiffer than I expected. There's gear to be had every 6-8 feet on the last pitch, minus the very top.
This would be pretty thrilling on a windy day in Bear Canyon.