|113 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Joe Denicola, Karin Wuhrmann, Florence Scholl, Greg Barnes, Sept. 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Barnes on Sep 18, 2011|
Steep sport-bolted knob climbing in a cool setting. First pitch 80' rap (but longer than half a 60m rope if you were to lower off the first pitch - due to a long traverse), second pitch 90'.
Climb the first pitch of Imperial March to the first bolt (or to the second if you use long sling on the second), then right and up past 2 bolts and a yellow alien placement (key for protecting follower), then go right 40 feet on ledges to bolted anchor. Crux pitch goes up the steep wall above. Use long slings on bolts 3 and 6 on the crux pitch (these bolts will be relocated once I get a chance to replace 1/4" bolts).
Trad gear thin-1.5" for first pitch (save yellow alien size piece above last bolt) plus 3 or 4 bolts (depending on if you clip just one or both of the bolts on p1 of Imperial March), 12 bolts for second crux pitch. Eight of the bolts are currently 1/4" buttonheads with good hangers.