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Choss Garden
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Black Dynamite S 
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 
Daisy S 
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Pitbulls on Crack S 
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Pitbulls on Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 15
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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From the left: new 12d with fixed draws, pitbulls ...

Description 

This route is the namesake for either a head-banging metal group formed in the late 80s, a bootleg Nirvana album, or a drink made from tequila, bourbon, rum, and Jagermeister. Whatever pumped up the Ruckman brothers, it sure worked. The quality of rock here is generally poorer than elsewhere and the line is a bit forced, but Pitbulls is worthwhile for the Garden habitué. The crux comes around the last bolt before the anchors. The anchors can be reached by skidaddling right and back left or punching straight-up (likely harder).

Location 

Pitbulls is the second bolt-line from the left (north) on the Garden, just left of a prominent right-facing flake system. It’s shown as the leftmost route in Ruckmans’ guide, but a new, unknown – and very hard looking (reportedly 12d) – line now anchors the left side of the crag. Both the new line and Pitbulls sport chain draws. I’m not sure who added the chain draws to Pitbulls (they were not there last summer), and to me they are an eye-sore, but they sure make for a convenient workout. (Please, though, don’t install any more).

Protection 

Draws. Be aware that the fourth clip is a rusty blade driven straight down behind a flake. It’d probably hold a fall, but thankfully the climbing getting to it and getting to the next bolt is relatively easy.


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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 8, 2012

This might sound crazy, but this route was my favorite of the 4 12a's at this crag. Fun, juggy, obvious climbing. Its a bit steeper than the other ones, but the holds are bigger, suiting my style. I found it flowed well, and the exit moves to the anchor involve pinching a 12 inch rectangular block. The driven piton is indeed a bit unnerving considering the quality of the other bolts and fixed chain draws. Get on this one. Felt easier than mellow gold but harder than depth of field. Fixed draws decrease the commitment factor.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 10, 2013

Really fun climb. The first 3 bolts has an interesting right barn door pulling at you. Then around the middle you are rewarded with a pretty good rest. After the rest pull past the past vertical climbing on crimps. Its an endurance factor here and the last bit is very sequential with a final throw to a jug at the top. Fairly pumpy.

Too bad the climb has ugly chain draws. Also the belaying is quite dicey. If you fell it wouldnt be good. The climb could have started from the ground.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
2 days ago

This route hadn't seen an ascent in years so I added chains and an anchor to keep it safe, since the first couple of bolts are on sketchy rock with hard clips. This greatly increased its popularity. It still needs a new anchor, just because the bolts are old. The fixed pin could blow and you'll be safe but, ya know, could be modernized.

I also used this to warm-up for BD, and it's a super fun, jug fest. The chains were just to get folks on it, and make things convenient for me as well (although it was so wired I consider them public service as I wasn't going to fall off.)

I cleaned the base so it's nice to hang out down low, although most people prefer to belay on the ledge, but now you can do it without walking up the ramp past routes (Benefactor) that don't have base belays.

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