|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990|
|Submitted By:||John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011|
|Comments on Pitbulls on Crack||Add Comment|
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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 8, 2012
|This might sound crazy, but this route was my favorite of the 4 12a's at this crag. Fun, juggy, obvious climbing. Its a bit steeper than the other ones, but the holds are bigger, suiting my style. I found it flowed well, and the exit moves to the anchor involve pinching a 12 inch rectangular block. The driven piton is indeed a bit unnerving considering the quality of the other bolts and fixed chain draws. Get on this one. Felt easier than mellow gold but harder than depth of field. Fixed draws decrease the commitment factor.|
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 10, 2013
Really fun climb. The first 3 bolts has an interesting right barn door pulling at you. Then around the middle you are rewarded with a pretty good rest. After the rest pull past the past vertical climbing on crimps. Its an endurance factor here and the last bit is very sequential with a final throw to a jug at the top. Fairly pumpy.
Too bad the climb has ugly chain draws. Also the belaying is quite dicey. If you fell it wouldnt be good. The climb could have started from the ground.