Pitbulls on Crack  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990 Submitted By:  John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

From the left: new 12d with fixed draws, pitbulls ...

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Description 

This route is the namesake for either a head-banging metal group formed in the late 80s, a bootleg Nirvana album, or a drink made from tequila, bourbon, rum, and Jagermeister. Whatever pumped up the Ruckman brothers, it sure worked. The quality of rock here is generally poorer than elsewhere and the line is a bit forced, but Pitbulls is worthwhile for the Garden habitué. The crux comes around the last bolt before the anchors. The anchors can be reached by skidaddling right and back left or punching straight-up (likely harder).

Location 

Pitbulls is the second bolt-line from the left (north) on the Garden, just left of a prominent right-facing flake system. It’s shown as the leftmost route in Ruckmans’ guide, but a new, unknown – and very hard looking (reportedly 12d) – line now anchors the left side of the crag. Both the new line and Pitbulls sport chain draws. I’m not sure who added the chain draws to Pitbulls (they were not there last summer), and to me they are an eye-sore, but they sure make for a convenient workout. (Please, though, don’t install any more).

Protection 

Draws. Be aware that the fourth clip is a rusty blade driven straight down behind a flake. It’d probably hold a fall, but thankfully the climbing getting to it and getting to the next bolt is relatively easy.