Pitbulls on Crack
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This route is the namesake for either a head-banging metal group formed in the late 80s, a bootleg Nirvana album, or a drink made from tequila, bourbon, rum, and Jagermeister. Whatever pumped up the Ruckman brothers, it sure worked. The quality of rock here is generally poorer than elsewhere and the line is a bit forced, but Pitbulls is worthwhile for the Garden habituť. The crux comes around the last bolt before the anchors. The anchors can be reached by skidaddling right and back left or punching straight-up (likely harder).
Pitbulls is the second bolt-line from the left (north) on the Garden, just left of a prominent right-facing flake system. Itís shown as the leftmost route in Ruckmansí guide, but a new, unknown Ė and very hard looking (reportedly 12d) Ė line now anchors the left side of the crag. Both the new line and Pitbulls sport chain draws. Iím not sure who added the chain draws to Pitbulls (they were not there last summer), and to me they are an eye-sore, but they sure make for a convenient workout. (Please, though, donít install any more).
Draws. Be aware that the fourth clip is a rusty blade driven straight down behind a flake. Itíd probably hold a fall, but thankfully the climbing getting to it and getting to the next bolt is relatively easy.
|Comments on Pitbulls on Crack
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
May 8, 2012
This might sound crazy, but this route was my favorite of the 4 12a's at this crag. Fun, juggy, obvious climbing. Its a bit steeper than the other ones, but the holds are bigger, suiting my style. I found it flowed well, and the exit moves to the anchor involve pinching a 12 inch rectangular block. The driven piton is indeed a bit unnerving considering the quality of the other bolts and fixed chain draws. Get on this one. Felt easier than mellow gold but harder than depth of field. Fixed draws decrease the commitment factor.
From: centerville, utah
Aug 10, 2013
Really fun climb. The first 3 bolts has an interesting right barn door pulling at you. Then around the middle you are rewarded with a pretty good rest. After the rest pull past the past vertical climbing on crimps. Its an endurance factor here and the last bit is very sequential with a final throw to a jug at the top. Fairly pumpy.
Too bad the climb has ugly chain draws. Also the belaying is quite dicey. If you fell it wouldnt be good. The climb could have started from the ground.