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Start at two thin cracks that lead up to a bulge/roof. Follow the left crack up past the roof, to fixed anchors (the same anchors as for Water Dog).
This route is 10 feet left of Mercedes and 10 feet right of Mister Masters, where two thin cracks lead up to a bulge. This route climbs the left of the two cracks; Water Dog takes the right crack.
Mostly smaller gear, but include up to a #3 friend.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
An OK lead. However, the guide book says little about this route and what it does say isn't that clear to understand. When I approached this route I went up the large flake for a bit then got into some thin and flaring crack systems. This is an OK approach but honestly the moves seem a bit harder than 10c. If you stay in the big flake and then are able to traverse under the roof and place good gear then it's right on for the 10b grade. A pretty uninteresting start to a very cool roof pull.